After Basel’s OEWG 15 meeting in Geneva, the debate over used textiles is moving further into formal policy work. That makes the evidence behind the claims more important than before. The central question is whether there is reliable evidence that large-scale exports of unusable clothing are driving a waste crisis in receiving countries, and whether that evidence is strong enough to justify new international controls on second-hand trade.

After the Basel Convention’s OEWG 15 meeting in Geneva, the formal process on used textiles and textile waste is moving forward. The work ahead will focus on definitions, guidance and possible future steps — with one question now at the centre: how should reusable clothing be distinguished from textile waste?

The second-hand and textile reuse sector appears cautiously optimistic after last week’s Basel Convention negotiations in Geneva. No new global controls for used clothes were decided, but industry representatives contacted by Reuse News describe the discussions as more constructive than many had feared.

Used textiles and textile waste moved further into global waste negotiations in Geneva. But Reuse News’ reporting shows that the evidence behind claims of large-scale second-hand waste exports remains disputed.

The OR Foundation helped popularise the claim that up to 40 percent of imported second-hand clothing in Ghana becomes waste. As the narrative gained influence in media and policy circles, the organisation's funding and global profile grew dramatically.

A year-long Reuse News investigation examines the evidence behind textile waste export claims and how those claims are influencing global textile policy, trade and circular systems.

Over the past few years, few issues have received more attention in textile policy discussions than exports of used clothing. Reports, campaigns and regulatory proposals have increasingly focused on what happens to garments after they leave Europe. Questions about waste, exports and end-of-life management now dominate much of the public debate. Yet the numbers suggest a different perspective. According to the European Environment Agency, textile consumption in the EU generate

The debate around used clothing exports appears to be evolving. A few years ago, public discussions were largely dominated by claims that vast quantities of second-hand clothing were being exported to Africa only to become waste. Figures such as the widely cited "40%" estimate became central to media coverage, NGO campaigns and policy discussions. Those claims continue to play an important role. But increasingly, a second argument is emerging. Many organisations are now focus

Over the course of my career, I have investigated complex issues, controversial claims and political debates. I have seen industries defend the indefensible. I have seen campaigners exaggerate problems. I have seen policymakers make mistakes. But I cannot remember encountering a case quite like this one. What has surprised me most is not that people disagree about second-hand clothing exports. Disagreement is normal. What has surprised me is how many important political and r

The debate over textile waste is no longer confined to conferences, NGO reports and industry discussions. It is increasingly shaping legislation and international policy. In the EU, separate collection of textile waste became mandatory in January 2025. Extended Producer Responsibility schemes are being introduced across member states, requiring producers to finance collection, sorting and treatment of used textiles. The EU's revised Waste Shipment Regulation will also tighten

The Basel Convention is the world's primary treaty governing the international movement of hazardous and other wastes. Originally adopted in 1989, its purpose was to prevent countries from shifting environmental burdens across borders. For decades, used clothing largely existed outside the centre of Basel discussions. That changed in 2025, when parties agreed to begin work specifically examining used textiles and textile waste. The key question is deceptively simple: when is

When the Basel Convention invited comments on used textiles and textile waste, responses arrived from governments, industry associations, NGOs, charities, academics and international organisations. On paper, the process is open to all 191 parties to the convention. In practice, only a small share submitted formal comments. Twelve parties and twenty-two observers participated in the consultation. The limited participation raises important questions. Countries with extensive po

The debate over textile waste often focuses on environmental risks. Less attention is sometimes given to what existing reuse systems already deliver. Every year, large volumes of used clothing are collected, sorted and redistributed through international second-hand markets. These systems provide affordable clothing to consumers, create economic activity and extend the life of products that might otherwise be discarded. Research has consistently shown that extending product l

Reuse News investigated one of the central assumptions behind the textile waste debate: that someone profits from exporting waste through second hand trade channels. After more than a year of reporting, no documented business model could be identified.

Claims that 40 percent of imported second-hand clothing becomes waste have shaped international debate and policy discussions. But traders, researchers and industry representatives question whether the economics behind the narrative make sense.

A field investigation in Ghana found little evidence of large-scale accumulations of imported textile waste at locations frequently cited in public debate. The findings raise broader questions about how evidence is shaping textile policy, trade regulation and reuse systems.

Most discarded textiles in Europe are not reused or recycled. Increasing system pressure is diverting growing volumes into incineration.

Europe is building new rules to control textile waste, increase circularity and track material flows. But as these rules take shape, a central problem is becoming visible. Large parts of the textile system they are meant to regulate remain only partially understood. Across Europe, the textile system is entering a new phase Over the past few years, EU textile policy has expanded rapidly. Separate collection of textiles is being introduced across member states. Controls on expo

EU prepares new reporting rules for textile waste and used textiles. The move signals growing pressure in the system and limited visibility into textile flows.