ALL REELS IN ONE PLACE
The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate | Part 1
The amazing story about the mountains of textile waste in Ghana. Mountains that doesn´t exist, but nevertheless have been broadcasted all around the world as a major problem. Unfortunately these claims has also influenced policymakers and politicians within the EU, which has led to new regulations that actually threatens the circular system of clothes.
This is part 1 of a three part series.
Produced: May 2025 by Thomas Lundkvist, Kristjan Sigurjonsson & Stella Nyawira
Kwame Owino: News about textile waste not true
Kwame Owino is a prominent Kenyan economist and the Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA-Kenya), a public policy think tank based in Nairobi. He has done extensive research on the second-hand industry in Kenya and here he is commenting the claims about textile waste in the second-hand imports.
Produced:March 2025 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
Textile waste in Kenya less than 1%
The issue of textile waste in Africa has been widely discussed in European media and is, as we have pointed out in several articles, simply not true. The amount of textile waste in African countries would be considerably lower than in Europe simply because European countries overconsume much larger quantities of clothes than African countries.
Taka Taka is a waste sorting company in Kenya. They know all there is to know about waste.
Produced: November-December 2024 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
Claims about textile waste simply not true
The widespread claims that up to 50% of imported second-hand clothes to some African countries, is simply not true, says Orjan Osterdal, Founder and CEO of Humana Secondhand Clothes Fundraising Projects. The claims is based on poor quality surveys and contradict the logic behind the second-hand trade.
Produced: December 2024 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
She is investigating the second-hand trade
Amanda Martvall is an expert on textiles and circularity at the Swedish Environmental Research Institute. She and her colleagues has just started a new study aiming to map out the second-hand trade in Kenya and it´s impact economically and socially.
We met with Amanda during her visit to Kenya and asked her some questions about her work.
Produced:March 2025 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
Hard times for collectors of clothes
Many collectors of second-hand clothes in Europe have a hard time since new rules for textiles came into play. Human Bridge is the largest collector in Sweden and their containers have been stopped at the border and ordered by the authorities to incinerate the clothes. Listen to Cristofer Ståhlgren when he tells the story about Human Bridge.
Produced: November-December 2024 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
Reuse by far the best option for the climate
Maja Nellström is a researcher at IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute. Her team recently published a report examining and comparing climate impact from reuse (second-hand), recycling and incineration. The results are very clear. The best way for the climate is to extend the lifetime of clothes.
Produced: March 2025 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
The nobel art of sorting second-hand clothes
Perhaps the most important ingredient in the second-hand clothing trade chain is sorting. It is a craft that can take many years to become really good at.
We have visited Oman and one of the world's most efficient sorting facilities.
Produced: January 2025 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson
The vital role of the second-hand industry in Kenya
The secondhand clothing industry has become an indispensable part of daily life in Africa, providing affordable apparel, supporting local economies, and playing a critical role in global sustainability efforts. For decades, the trade in secondhand garments—often imported from wealthier nations—has fueled a thriving circular economy that benefits millions across the continent. Filmmaker Kristjan Sigurjonsson floored the clothes, the people, the politicians and the researchers engaged in the trade in Kenya.
Produced:March 2025 by Kristjan Sigurjonsson