Over the course of my career, I have investigated complex issues, controversial claims and political debates. I have seen industries defend the indefensible. I have seen campaigners exaggerate problems. I have seen policymakers make mistakes. But I cannot remember encountering a case quite like this one. What has surprised me most is not that people disagree about second-hand clothing exports. Disagreement is normal. What has surprised me is how many important political and r

"It is fast fashion - driven by overproduction and throwaway culture - that fuels the textile waste crisis. Yet blame has shifted onto a sector that actively reduces waste - the second-hand sector. The claim that this sector exports waste is not supported by data, and it defies logic."

When I was tasked a year ago with delving into whether the export of second-hand clothing to African countries is, in fact, dumping of textile waste, I could never have dreamed what I would uncover. Right from the start, it sounded a little odd. Why would anyone pay tax and customs to import goods that can’t then be sold? And what forces in Europe would benefit from transporting waste to another continent when it would be far cheaper to incinerate it?

"Let's face reality and support what already works", says chairman of Ghana used clothing Association in a letter to the Financial Times. As a representative of the second-hand clothes trade in Ghana, I support the idea that EPR funds should “follow the flow of garments”. But EPR schemes in the EU and beyond must reflect the realities of global textile reuse and support what already works.