Ahead of the June 17 Environment Council, the European Commission issued a stark warning about the pressing issues facing the EU's recycling sector. High energy costs, cheaper primary raw materials, unfair import competition, and a significant gap between recycling capacity and demand are hindering progress. Despite increasing waste volumes, plastic recycling is declining, and the textiles sector grapples with oversupply and low demand. To bolster the circular economy, the Commission is advocating for measures such as a Circular Economy Act, revised VAT rules, trade defense tools, and updated State Aid frameworks. Member States are being urged to strengthen Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, tighten import controls, promote fair competition, and accelerate waste legislation implementation to ensure the long-term viability of the industry.

On June 10, 2025, the French Senate overwhelmingly adopted a bill to regulate advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu. The legislation, passed with 337 votes to 1, aims to distinguish between traditional fast fashion and its ultra-fast counterpart, focusing on the latter to ensure legal enforceability. Key measures include a ban on influencer promotions, mandatory warning labels on ads detailing environmental and social impacts, and increased eco-contributions up to €10 per item by 2030 to fund domestic recycling. The bill, which also lays groundwork for a durability index, now returns to the National Assembly for further debate. While critics suggest corporate pressure weakened the bill, lawmakers assert the narrowed scope is vital for its legal viability.

It is often said that the second-hand industry undermines the local textile industry in African countries. For this reason, second-hand imports have even been banned in some African nations, such as South Africa. However, a study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented in Nairobi today shows that this conclusion is incorrect. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth. The Lead researcher for the report and CEO of the Institute , mr Kwame Owino, said: “Our findings make one thing clear: citizens and economies can gain the most when Mitumba and local manufacturing grow together. When we remove needless barriers, the combined strength of these sectors can create more jobs, more consumer choice, and more sustainable growth than if we stifle one in favour of the other. It’s a win-win for our economy and hardworking families relying on affordable clothing. This is about smart policymaking grounded in evidence – leveraging the strengths of each segment rather than picking winners and losers.” Mr Owimo presented a list with recommended policy actions to achieve this balanced growth: - Harmonise import rules and enforce quality standards for new and used clothing - Support local manufacturers through tax breaks and skills training - Promote eco-friendly practices across the industry T he Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) commissioned the study and during todays presentation the chairperson of MCAK, Teresia Wairimu Njenga stated “We believe that the future of the apparel sector is about strategic coexistence. With smart, inclusive policies, both sectors will thrive, fulfilling the promise of Agenda 2063.” Watch presentation on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvwHCJnLju8&t=6346s Read more: The whole report

The Kenyan government is ramping up efforts to revive its once-thriving textile industry, aiming to boost manufacturing and create jobs as part of its "Bottom-Up Economic Transformation Agenda." Officials have been studying models like Benin's to revitalize the cotton, textile, and apparel sector, recognizing its potential to significantly contribute to Kenya's industrialization goals. This push comes amidst discussions about the impact of the second-hand clothing trade, known locally as "mitumba." While mitumba provides affordable clothing and livelihoods for many, there are concerns it may hinder domestic textile production and contribute to environmental issues. By revitalizing the local industry, Kenya hopes to reduce its reliance on imported second-hand garments and strengthen its economy. However, a recent study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented a couple of weeks ago, shows that these concerns seems unfounded. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth, the study suggests. Read more here

The RREUSE network has sent an open letter to EU environment ministers, urging them to address the deepening crisis in the used and waste textile sector during the upcoming June Environment Council.  The letter outlines the growing strain on social enterprises responsible for textile waste management: the second-hand market is saturated, sorting centres are closing, and increasing volumes of reusable textiles are being incinerated due to a lack of sustainable alternatives.  Despite the EU’s legal requirement for separate textile collection starting in January 2025, most Member States remain unprepared, lacking both the infrastructure and funding necessary to implement the mandate effectively.  In light of these urgent challenges, RREUSE calls for the immediate inclusion of the textile crisis on the Council’s agenda and the adoption of a Textile Emergency Action Plan (TEAP), backed by interim funding from existing EU instruments.  You can read the letter here RREUSE is an international network representing social enterprises active in reuse, repair, and recycling. The network brings together expertise in these three crucial steps towards waste prevention. RREUSE's members are committed to promoting environmental protection, social justice, and economic sustainability by extending the lifespan of products and reducing waste.

The European Commission, alongside consumer protection authorities from Belgium, France, Ireland, and the Netherlands, has notified Shein of multiple infringements of EU consumer law. The coordinated action by the Consumer Protection Cooperation (CPC) Network targets practices such as fake discounts, pressure selling, misleading information, deceptive product labels, false sustainability claims, and hidden contact details. The CPC Network has also requested further information from Shein to assess its compliance with obligations regarding product rankings, reviews, and ratings. These enforcement actions supplement an ongoing Digital Services Act (DSA) inquiry by the Commission into the platform. If Shein fails to address these concerns within a month, national authorities may impose enforcement measures, including fines, to ensure compliance.

One of the organisations collecting the most clothing in Sweden risks going under due to new rules on textile collection. Yesterday, Human Bridge in a pressrelease announced that the pressure they are under may soon force them to limit their collection operations. This would further worsen an already serious problem with textile waste in Sweden. Containers in Sweden overflowed with textiles Since the turn of the year, Swedish authorities have implemented an EU directive stipulating that textile waste may no longer be disposed of in household rubbish. As a result, collection organisations such as Human Bridge have been flooded with textiles they struggle to handle. Regulations surrounding textile waste and second-hand clothing have grown increasingly complex in recent years. And although these rules are intended to improve waste management, reduce negative climate impact, and stimulate a more circular economy, the consequences now appear to be quite the opposite. Previously, organisations collecting clothes would sell them on to sorting companies, usually based in Europe. These companies would sort the garments into hundreds of different categories and then sell them on to domestic second-hand markets or export them to other countries. One of the EU’s aims has been to limit the export of unusable clothing that risks ending up in landfills in African countries—despite there being no real evidence that such exports actually take place. See link below. Nevertheless, new regulations have been pushed through. The new rules affect collection organisations in two ways: They can no longer sell the collected clothes to other EU countries unless they have first been sorted. Unsorted clothing is now considered waste. Sorting clothing is extremely costly, as it requires a great deal of manpower, and this alone makes it difficult for collection organisations or companies to remain financially viable. When consumers are no longer allowed to dispose of textile waste in household rubbish, the proportion of textiles collected that cannot be reused increases, placing even greater pressure on sorting facilities. Human Bridge is now appealing to Swedish municipalities to help improve the situation. If collection organisations in Sweden are unable to manage this, the mountains of textiles will become colossal, usable clothing will be incinerated, and all ambitions for better, climate-friendly management will quite literally go up in smoke. Listen to Cristofer Ståhlgren from Human Bridge when he explains why organisations like Human Bridge is so important and why they are struggling so much. Read more: Misconceptions about textile waste in Africa threatens circular textile economy

The second-hand industry may well be one of the most misunderstood industries in the world. All sorts of rumors circulate in the media and in debates that most of it is garbage or that what you donate to collections is just burned. But for many years the second-hand industry has been a well-developed trade chain that generates not only cheap clothes but also jobs and a circular economy. Perhaps the most important ingredient in the trade chain is sorting clothes. It is a craft that can take many years to become really good at. We have visited Oman and one of the world's most efficient sorting facilities.

The second-hand clothing industry has become an indispensable part of daily life in Africa, providing affordable apparel, supporting local economies, and playing a critical role in global sustainability efforts. For decades, the trade in second-hand garments—often imported from wealthier nations—has fueled a thriving circular economy that benefits millions across the continent. In many African countries, second-hand clothing, often referred to as “mitumba” in East Africa, is the primary source of affordable fashion for the population. With high poverty rates and limited access to new, high-quality clothing, second-hand garments offer an affordable alternative for families looking to stretch their budgets. “These clothes give us access to quality we couldn’t otherwise afford,” says a vendor in Kenya’s bustling Gikomba market, one of the largest second-hand clothing hubs in East Africa. “Second-hand clothing is not just a choice; it’s a necessity for many.” A driver of local economies Beyond affordability, the second-hand clothing trade is a significant economic driver. Across Africa, it creates jobs for millions of people involved in importing, sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. Entire industries have grown around the trade, from tailors who repair and repurpose garments to entrepreneurs who sell second-hand items at local markets. The sector also supports small-scale retailers, many of whom rely on second-hand clothing sales to sustain their businesses and livelihoods. In countries like Ghana, Uganda, and Tanzania, second-hand clothing markets are not just centers of commerce but vibrant communities that bring people together. An environmental necessity Globally, the fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to pollution and waste. The second-hand industry, however, provides a critical solution to the growing environmental crisis. By extending the life cycle of garments, the trade reduces the need for new clothing production and minimizes the volume of textiles that end up in landfills. Africa’s role in this circular economy is essential. Countries across the continent have become hubs for the reuse of clothing, helping to reduce waste from industrialized nations while meeting the needs of local populations. Experts argue that the second-hand trade not only addresses issues of affordability but also plays a vital part in combating the environmental impact of fast fashion. Challenges on the horizon Despite its importance, the second-hand industry in Africa faces significant challenges. The rise of fast fashion, driven by ultra-cheap brands like Shein and Temu, threatens to disrupt the market. These brands flood African markets with low-quality, new clothing, undermining the demand for second-hand garments. Additionally, some African governments have debated or implemented bans on second-hand clothing imports, arguing that they stifle the growth of local textile industries. While these policies aim to promote domestic production, critics warn that they risk eliminating a critical source of affordable clothing for millions of people. A system worth protecting The second-hand clothing industry is more than just a trade; it is a lifeline for communities across Africa and a cornerstone of sustainability in the global fashion system. Protecting this industry requires coordinated efforts from governments, international organisations, and consumers. Policies that support the circular economy, such as improving the quality of second-hand imports and addressing the environmental costs of fast fashion, are essential to safeguarding the future of the second-hand trade in Africa. As the world grapples with the environmental and economic challenges of the fashion industry, Africa’s secondhand markets stand as a testament to the power of reuse and the potential for a more sustainable and inclusive global economy. For many African countries the import of second-hand clothes from Europe is not just an opportunity for the population to get good clothes to a fair prize. It is also a large industry that create job opportunities and tax revenues. In Kenya only the authorities estimate that the industry create around two million jobs and provide clothes for more than 90% of the population. But there are forces in motion trying to disrupt the second-hand industry in Africa.  Written by Tinna Bondestam

The European second-hand clothing market has seen significant growth in recent years, and this trend is expected to continue. According to a report from Future Market Insights, the sales of second-hand clothing in Europe are projected to reach $71.9 billion in 2024, with an annual growth rate of 8.2% through 2034. This growth reflects increasing awareness of sustainability and a shift in consumer behavior toward more environmentally friendly consumption habits. Additionally, the rise of online resale platforms has made it easier for consumers to buy and sell pre-owned clothing, further driving market expansion. Despite this positive development, the industry faces challenges, including competition from fast fashion companies and the need for increased regulation to ensure the quality and safety of second-hand products. Nevertheless, the outlook for the second-hand market in Europe remains promising, with continued growth and innovation on the horizon.

A new study from Consulting for Africa (CFA) finds no evidence of dumping of second-hand clothing waste in Mozambique. Press reports of SHC waste streams or landfills are unfounded, authors of the report says. Instead, they found that the SHC sector is immensely important to Mozambique. First, it provides cheap, diverse and readily accessible clothing for millions living in poverty. At least 80% of the population relies on SHC for basic clothing needs. Second, the availability of affordable clothing creates budget headroom for other important household expenditures such as food, shelter and education. Third, the SHC sector is a significant employer. Read the whole report here

On 13 March, EuRIC ( European Recycling Industries’ Confederation) and FEAD (European Federation of Waste Management and Environmental Services) issued a joint position paper, backing the introduction of an EU-wide mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles, while highlighting the urgent challenges confronting the post-consumer textile sector. With Member States having 30 months to establish EPR schemes, the textile collection, sorting, and recycling industries are in crisis and require immediate action. Starting 1 January 2025, the separate collection of textiles have increased volumes, but quality has deteriorated due to ultra-fast fashion. Meanwhile, capacity and outlets for processed textiles have not kept up, and handling non-reusable textiles remains costly. Without swift support, valuable materials will be lost, putting the industry’s sustainability and the EU’s resource autonomy at risk. To tackle these challenges, FEAD and EuRIC propose ten key measures to support the post-consumer textile sector until EPR schemes are fully operational..