Another new study refute claims of textile waste exported to Africa

When the researchers followed the flow of second-hand clothing donations from Sweden to Kenya, they discovered a successful circular model and found no evidence for the claims that Europe is dumping it's textile waste in Kenya. The study was conducted and authored by IVL, the Swedish Environmental Research Institute, and commissioned by Humana Lithuania. The research explores the environmental, economic, and social benefits of exporting second-hand clothing (SHC) from Sweden to Kenya, at a pivotal time in Europe following the enforcement of mandatory textile collection under the EU Waste Framework Directive.  

The study finds that a prevalent criticism – that exporting second-hand clothes to Africa constitutes dumping of low-quality garments – is not supported by evidence. Given Kenya’s high import taxes on mitumba, an East African term for second-hand clothes, importing textiles to discard them in landfills or incinerators would be economically unfeasible.

Amanda Martvall, an expert from IVL and co-author of the report, said, "The mitumba market in Kenya is a practical demonstration of a successful circular economy model. It effectively extends textile life and clearly disproves the dumping narrative."

IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute

Read more: The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate