Newly enforced EU laws requiring mandatory separate collection of textile waste have triggered a system‑wide breakdown across Europe—most starkly demonstrated in Sweden—causing major disruptions to the second‑hand clothing ecosystem. Sweden, one of the first EU countries to adopt the January 1, 2025 deadline, has seen recycling centers reach breaking point. Municipal facilities reported a 60% surge in textile volumes  in early 2025, with collection centers “completely overwhelmed”  by the influx. Sweden's environment ministry announced new rules permitting exceptionally worn, stained, or tattered textiles to be discarded with regular waste beginning October 1, as systems buckle under pressure. Humana Sweden, handling over 1,300 collection points, has already shuttered nearly half— 600 sites closed —due to unmanageable intake and costs. Reuse att risk Experts warn that mixing low‑value, non‑reusable fabrics with higher quality donations is undermining existing reuse value chains. A joint study by IVL and Humana Lt reveals that poorly sorted collections harm transnational reuse systems that formerly shipped high‑quality garments from Sweden to second‑hand markets in Kenya and beyond. Reuse‑ready garments are being contaminated by unsellable waste, severely reducing their market value. Before the law change, Humana Lt sorted roughly 76% for reuse, but the emerging chaos is blurring lines between reusable and recycling‑bound textiles. A Broader EU Breakdown Although EU directives mandate all member states to implement separate textile collection by 2025 and progressive extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes covering costs of sorting and recycling, infrastructure remains inadequate across the continent. Local governments and civil society groups are lagging on compensation. Without EPR systems in full operation, the economic burden has fallen hard on municipal waste systems and charitable collectors, who face mounting costs with little support. For organizations like Artikel2 , Myrorna , and Human Bridge , the new law has converted thousands of collection sites into net liabilities—handling more garbage than reusable donations. Some are actively scaling back services or pulling out of municipal contracts altogether. Consequences for the Second‑Hand Industry The unfolding chaos presents a direct threat to the second‑hand clothing sector: Diminished quality  of donations, reducing resale potential. Higher sorting costs , limiting profitability. Reputational risk , as donations end up landfilled or incinerated contrary to donor intent. Reduced global reuse streams , as export quality drops and clean supply to markets like Kenya wanes. Europe’s fashion industry is particularly vulnerable to fast fashion’s influence. New EPR regulations aim to push producers to fund textile recycling—but the implementation gap leaves second‑hand chains at risk while systemic improvements lag. Sources: Humana Sweden Financial Times Vouge Business European Environmental Agency Texfash Apparel Views

In two recent articles in the Financial Times they highlight the critical issue of fashion and textile waste. And, as a society, we must tackle the environmental damage caused by the fashion industry’s relentless overproduction. Extended producer responsibility (EPR) is an important tool to hold brands accountable for the full lifecycle of their products. As a representative of the second-hand clothes trade in Ghana, I support the idea that EPR funds should “follow the flow of garments”. But EPR schemes in the EU and beyond must reflect the realities of global textile reuse and support what already works. The second-hand clothing trade is the most established and scalable solution to textile overproduction and waste, and this is as true in Ghana as anywhere else. Global reuse keeps garments in circulation longer, reduces demand for new production and stops clothing from being sent to landfill or incineration too soon. Europe generates far more used clothing than it can reuse domestically and, in countries like ours, demand is very strong for these goods. In Ghana, this trade not only meets essential clothing needs but also directly supports the livelihoods of approximately 2.5mn people, especially benefiting women and youth through job creation and entrepreneurship. Policies that treat exports as waste by default, or restrict the flow of reusable clothing, risk undermining both environmental and social benefits. Policymakers, brands and consumers must embrace the global value of reuse and ensure garments continue to flow where they are both needed and valued. This isn’t just about cutting waste — it’s about making circularity work in the real world, from Brussels to Accra. Edward Atobrah Binkley General Secretary of the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association, Accra, Ghana  “Solving fashion’s waste problem”, Report , FT Weekend, May 31 “Fast fashion stuck in production-consumption rut”, Special Reports , May 22

When I was tasked a year ago with delving into whether the export of second-hand clothing to African countries is, in fact, dumping of textile waste, I could never have dreamed what I would uncover. Right from the start, it sounded a little odd. Why would anyone pay tax and customs to import goods that can’t then be sold? And what forces in Europe would benefit from transporting waste to another continent when it would be far cheaper to incinerate it? It is undoubtedly a fraught issue—at least in those parts of the textile industry and environmental movement engaged with questions of waste management, circularity, and the climate crisis. It is sometimes described as a debated issue. But it is clear that the narrative “Europe is dumping its unwanted clothes in African countries” dominates the conversation. Countless stories in major international media and the haunting images of clothes washed up on Ghana’s beaches have seared themselves into the minds of many Europeans and also in African countries. As a journalist, it’s hard to let go of the question once it takes hold of your mind. What is really going on here? So we did what one should do: We tried to trace the reports and statistics back to their sources, then assess the quality of those sources and the evidence behind their claims. We reviewed the academic research in the field. What does it say, and can we draw any clear conclusions from it? Finally, we decided to travel to the places where these images originate—to assess for ourselves, with our own eyes, what is actually going on. All in all, it quickly became clear: There is no evidence that the import of second-hand clothing into Ghana is generating the volumes of textile waste claimed There are academic studies that paint an entirely different picture When we were on the ground ourselves, we were struck by how much waste there actually is—and how much of what appears to be textiles is in fact not So how has the situation come to this? One reason is that many issues in life are often more complex than they appear at first glance. What, after all, is the definition of textile waste? And surely textile waste is a problem in many countries—that no one can deny? We will attempt to answer these questions and more in our upcoming reports on “The Elusive Truth Behind the Second-Hand Export Debate”. Stay tuned! Thomas Lundkvist Managing Editor Reuse News Read more: The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate

The digital publication  The Exchange  recently published an article about the negative consequences of second-hand import and trade in Uganda. Unfortunately, the author has completely mixed up figures and conclusions. Why, one might wonder? The article begins by stating that the proportion of textile waste from the import of second-hand clothing in Uganda is massive:  “up to 48 tonnes discarded daily, most of it ending up in landfills.” Article in The Exchange How the author arrives at this figure is explained later in the article, where reference is made to a study on the subject conducted by  WasteAid, the Management Training and Advisory Centre, and the Uganda Tailors Association . According to this study, Uganda generates a total of 48 tonnes of textile waste per day , which corresponds to 3 percent of the country’s total waste. Converted into annual figures, this amounts to 17,520 tonnes per year . However this figure includes  all textile waste , regardless of its origin. The authors interpretation of this seems to be that  all  textile waste in Uganda comes directly from imported second-hand clothing, which is a somewhat strange conclusion. Textile waste normally consists of clothing and textiles that have gone through several life cycles and can no longer be used. In most countries through both Africa and Europe the total amount of textile waste is considered to be around 2-4 per cent. of the total waste stream, which is why this figure is't in any way controversial. However, further down in the article, it turns out that there are actual figures on how much of the imported second-hand clothing is considered unusable and therefore regarded as waste upon arrival. According to the study it is around  one percent  of the imported second-hand clothing. This equates to 800 tonnes annually . So, how can 800 tonnes annually suddenly become 17,520 tonnes annually? The difference is quite substantial, which makes the conclusions in the article rather difficult to understand. All clothing, wether it is recently produced or reused will eventually become waste. Also, if Uganda didn't import second-hand clothes, it would probably import new clothes or produce them domestically. These clothes will also one day become waste. Unfortunately, this is yet another example of the misinformation that has been spread for years in both African and European media – and which has been disproved countless times by investigations and studies. The difference this time is that the article actually refers to relevant figures – but draws the wrong conclusions. Link: The Exchange Article Link: Misconceptions about textile waste in Africa threatens the circular textile economy Link: Report on second-hand clothing in Uganda & Tanzania

A recent 2025 Fossil Free Fashion Scorecard by Stand.earth indicates a concerning trend among top fashion brands, with over 40% increasing their emissions. The scorecard evaluated 42 leading brands, revealing that only three (7%) are on track to meet the Paris Agreement's 1.5°C target. In contrast, 17 brands (40%) reported increased emissions compared to baseline years. Shein received an 'F' grade for a 170% rise in emissions over two years, joining Boohoo and Aritzia. H&M, however, earned the highest grade (B+), lauded for financing supplier decarbonization and engaging in climate advocacy.

Ireland is significantly boosting its commitment to a circular economy with an allocation of over €27 million from the Circular Economy Fund. Announced by Minister for Climate, Energy and the Environment Darragh O'Brien and Minister of State for the Circular Economy Alan Dillon, the funding will support various initiatives aimed at driving the nation's transition. This substantial investment underscores Ireland's dedication to fostering sustainable practices and reducing waste across different sectors.

Ahead of the June 17 Environment Council, the European Commission issued a stark warning about the pressing issues facing the EU's recycling sector. High energy costs, cheaper primary raw materials, unfair import competition, and a significant gap between recycling capacity and demand are hindering progress. Despite increasing waste volumes, plastic recycling is declining, and the textiles sector grapples with oversupply and low demand. To bolster the circular economy, the Commission is advocating for measures such as a Circular Economy Act, revised VAT rules, trade defense tools, and updated State Aid frameworks. Member States are being urged to strengthen Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, tighten import controls, promote fair competition, and accelerate waste legislation implementation to ensure the long-term viability of the industry.

On June 10, 2025, the French Senate overwhelmingly adopted a bill to regulate advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu. The legislation, passed with 337 votes to 1, aims to distinguish between traditional fast fashion and its ultra-fast counterpart, focusing on the latter to ensure legal enforceability. Key measures include a ban on influencer promotions, mandatory warning labels on ads detailing environmental and social impacts, and increased eco-contributions up to €10 per item by 2030 to fund domestic recycling. The bill, which also lays groundwork for a durability index, now returns to the National Assembly for further debate. While critics suggest corporate pressure weakened the bill, lawmakers assert the narrowed scope is vital for its legal viability.

It is often said that the second-hand industry undermines the local textile industry in African countries. For this reason, second-hand imports have even been banned in some African nations, such as South Africa. However, a study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented in Nairobi today shows that this conclusion is incorrect. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth. The Lead researcher for the report and CEO of the Institute , mr Kwame Owino, said: “Our findings make one thing clear: citizens and economies can gain the most when Mitumba and local manufacturing grow together. When we remove needless barriers, the combined strength of these sectors can create more jobs, more consumer choice, and more sustainable growth than if we stifle one in favour of the other. It’s a win-win for our economy and hardworking families relying on affordable clothing. This is about smart policymaking grounded in evidence – leveraging the strengths of each segment rather than picking winners and losers.” Mr Owimo presented a list with recommended policy actions to achieve this balanced growth: - Harmonise import rules and enforce quality standards for new and used clothing - Support local manufacturers through tax breaks and skills training - Promote eco-friendly practices across the industry T he Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) commissioned the study and during todays presentation the chairperson of MCAK, Teresia Wairimu Njenga stated “We believe that the future of the apparel sector is about strategic coexistence. With smart, inclusive policies, both sectors will thrive, fulfilling the promise of Agenda 2063.” Watch presentation on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvwHCJnLju8&t=6346s Read more: The whole report

The Kenyan government is ramping up efforts to revive its once-thriving textile industry, aiming to boost manufacturing and create jobs as part of its "Bottom-Up Economic Transformation Agenda." Officials have been studying models like Benin's to revitalize the cotton, textile, and apparel sector, recognizing its potential to significantly contribute to Kenya's industrialization goals. This push comes amidst discussions about the impact of the second-hand clothing trade, known locally as "mitumba." While mitumba provides affordable clothing and livelihoods for many, there are concerns it may hinder domestic textile production and contribute to environmental issues. By revitalizing the local industry, Kenya hopes to reduce its reliance on imported second-hand garments and strengthen its economy. However, a recent study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented a couple of weeks ago, shows that these concerns seems unfounded. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth, the study suggests. Read more here

The RREUSE network has sent an open letter to EU environment ministers, urging them to address the deepening crisis in the used and waste textile sector during the upcoming June Environment Council.  The letter outlines the growing strain on social enterprises responsible for textile waste management: the second-hand market is saturated, sorting centres are closing, and increasing volumes of reusable textiles are being incinerated due to a lack of sustainable alternatives.  Despite the EU’s legal requirement for separate textile collection starting in January 2025, most Member States remain unprepared, lacking both the infrastructure and funding necessary to implement the mandate effectively.  In light of these urgent challenges, RREUSE calls for the immediate inclusion of the textile crisis on the Council’s agenda and the adoption of a Textile Emergency Action Plan (TEAP), backed by interim funding from existing EU instruments.  You can read the letter here RREUSE is an international network representing social enterprises active in reuse, repair, and recycling. The network brings together expertise in these three crucial steps towards waste prevention. RREUSE's members are committed to promoting environmental protection, social justice, and economic sustainability by extending the lifespan of products and reducing waste.

The European Commission, alongside consumer protection authorities from Belgium, France, Ireland, and the Netherlands, has notified Shein of multiple infringements of EU consumer law. The coordinated action by the Consumer Protection Cooperation (CPC) Network targets practices such as fake discounts, pressure selling, misleading information, deceptive product labels, false sustainability claims, and hidden contact details. The CPC Network has also requested further information from Shein to assess its compliance with obligations regarding product rankings, reviews, and ratings. These enforcement actions supplement an ongoing Digital Services Act (DSA) inquiry by the Commission into the platform. If Shein fails to address these concerns within a month, national authorities may impose enforcement measures, including fines, to ensure compliance.