"Few industries might be so misunderstood as our industry. This is particularly sad when these misconceptions start to influence politicians and other decision makers" These are the words from Örjan Österdal, CEO of Humana Second Hand Fundraising Projects, one of Europe's largest second-hand clothing enterprises. A non-profit enterprise that´s been a part of the second-hand trading since the nineties. "I would argue that the second-hand clothing industry is a very well functioning circular economy, but it is now under a threat from politicians whose ambition is just that - to create a circular economy system. It is a paradox, to put it mildly" The prevailing media narrative suggesting that 40% or more of second-hand clothes imported into Africa end up in landfills has faced strong criticism from experts and operators within the second-hand industry. These claims are not only unverified and misleading but also disregard the economic logic of the trade. “It would be both illogical and uneconomical to import clothes that end up being discarded,” says Örjan Österdal. “First of all, the cost of importing second-hand clothing is extremely high. In Kenya, for example, taxes, tariffs, and fees amount to over 70% of the purchase price.” Read more: Misconceptions about textile waste in Africa threatens the circular textile economy But, let´s start from the beginning. How does this industry really work? The journey of donated clothes What actually happens to the clothes we drop into collection bins outside shopping centers and recycling facilities? Many people assume that “someone” collects them and ships them off to Africa, where they are left for anyone to take. For many years, secondhand clothing has been part of a professionalised global industry—a commercial trade spanning multiple wholesale levels across continents and providing employment for millions of people. The container you place your clothes in is owned by an organisation or company. They are responsible for purchasing and placing the container, regularly emptying it, performing an initial sorting, and then selling the clothes to a sorting company. This process helps fund the collection operation, which requires labor and transportation. Many nonprofit organisations use the revenue from selling unsorted second-hand clothing to finance aid projects, while some for-profit companies also participate in this trade. Export and import The sorting company that purchases the clothes conducts a more detailed sorting process—sometimes into more than 400 different categories. Items are separated by type, such as shoes, jackets, pants, and sweaters, and further sorted by size, gender, fashion style, or material. Once sorted and packaged, the clothing is sold either to domestic market retailers or exported to importers in other countries. Importers then pay duties and taxes before reselling the clothing to shops or smaller wholesalers within their country. These smaller wholesalers, in turn, supply market vendors and secondhand shops. In many African countries, thousands of stores specialize in selling second-hand clothing. Affordable clothing for millions For many African nations, where a significant portion of the population lives below the poverty line, second-hand clothing offers a vital opportunity to purchase affordable apparel. Unlike in Europe, where second-hand shopping is often viewed as a niche or trendy choice, in Africa, it forms a fundamental part of the clothing market. Studies show that approximately 90% of Africans buy second-hand clothing (source: Institute of Economic Affairs Kenya ) Employment and economic impact In Kenya alone, government estimates suggest that the second-hand clothing industry employs over 2 million people. The customs and tax revenues generated are substantial, and if second-hand imports were to stop, it would deliver a devastating blow to the national economy, the job market, and the general population. Redistribution of surplus Clothing overconsumption in Europe is staggering. In Sweden, for example, the average person is estimated to purchase between 50 and 60 garments per year. Clothes that are no longer wanted are either discarded or, if deemed useful to others, placed in collection bins. In contrast, the average African citizen buys only 2–4 garments per year and can only afford to spend a fraction of what a European would pay for a single item. This redistribution process extends the lifespan of clothing that would otherwise be incinerated or sent to landfills, while also providing access to quality garments for poorer communities. In essence, it represents a global redistribution of surplus. Climate impact A recent study from the IVL Institute in Sweden examines the textile industry's climate impact and compares various methods for managing clothing surplus in European countries. The findings reveal that reusing textiles provides the most significant climate benefits, regardless of whether the reuse takes place in Europe or elsewhere. This advantage stems from the fact that the highest environmental impact occurs during the manufacturing phase of clothing. By extending the lifespan of garments through reuse, the demand for new production decreases, thereby reducing the overall environmental footprint. The study also compared the environmental effects of recycling versus incineration with energy recovery. While recycling can reduce water consumption—particularly beneficial for processes like cotton cultivation—the difference in climate impact between recycling and incineration within Europe is relatively minor. Read More: The IVL report Conclusions Within the second-hand industry, there is a strong concern—and perhaps even fear—that exports from Europe to regions such as Africa may be restricted or even banned. The reasons for this include the belief that a significant portion of the clothing ends up directly in landfills in Africa. The troubling aspect of this prediction is that, firstly, the proportion of waste among imported clothing is not as large as often claimed, and secondly, restricting exports would have a highly negative impact on millions of people. The obvious risk would be that ultra-fast fashion companies, such as Shein, would expand in the African market, which would significantly contribute to growing landfills since their clothes usually are not durable enough for reuse. At the same time, the amount of clothing we are forced to burn in Europe would increase significantly, as we would no longer be able to export them for reuse to parts of the world where they are in demand. Written by Thomas Lundkvist

The second-hand industry may well be one of the most misunderstood industries in the world. All sorts of rumors circulate in the media and in debates that most of it is garbage or that what you donate to collections is just burned. But for many years the second-hand industry has been a well-developed trade chain that generates not only cheap clothes but also jobs and a circular economy. Perhaps the most important ingredient in the trade chain is sorting clothes. It is a craft that can take many years to become really good at. We have visited Oman and one of the world's most efficient sorting facilities.

This is Maja Nellström - Project manager at IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute. Her team recently published a report examining and comparing climate impact from reuse (second-hand), recycling and incineration. A recent study by the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute has provided a comprehensive assessment of the environmental, social, and economic sustainability of various methods for managing textiles collected in Sweden. The research focused on reuse and recycling practices both within Europe and internationally, as well as the option of incineration. The findings indicate that reusing textiles offers the most significant climate benefits, regardless of whether the reuse occurs in Europe or elsewhere. This advantage is primarily because the highest environmental impact arises during the manufacturing phase of clothing. Extending the lifespan of garments through reuse reduces the need for new production, thereby diminishing the associated environmental footprint. The study also examined the environmental implications of recycling compared to incineration with energy recovery. While recycling textiles can lead to lower water consumption—benefiting processes like cotton cultivation—the difference in climate impact between recycling and incineration in Europe is relatively minimal. Beyond environmental considerations, the research highlighted the economic and social advantages of the second-hand clothing market. For households with limited budgets, this market provides both income opportunities and access to affordable apparel. The study underscores the importance of ensuring that exported textiles are genuinely reused and not merely disposed of in importing countries. A high rate of disposal among exported textiles can diminish the environmental benefits of reuse. Additionally, the longer a garment is used and the more it replaces the need for new clothing, the greater the environmental advantage. These insights are particularly pertinent in light of Sweden’s new legislation mandating the separate collection of textiles, which came into effect on January 1, 2025. The law aims to promote sustainable handling of collected textiles, and this study provides valuable guidance for stakeholders involved in textile management decisions. In conclusion, the report advocates for prioritizing textile reuse over recycling and incineration to achieve the most favorable environmental outcomes. It also calls for careful consideration of the quality and destination of exported textiles to maximize their sustainability benefits. Link: The IVL-Report

The second-hand clothing industry has become an indispensable part of daily life in Africa, providing affordable apparel, supporting local economies, and playing a critical role in global sustainability efforts. For decades, the trade in second-hand garments—often imported from wealthier nations—has fueled a thriving circular economy that benefits millions across the continent. In many African countries, second-hand clothing, often referred to as “mitumba” in East Africa, is the primary source of affordable fashion for the population. With high poverty rates and limited access to new, high-quality clothing, second-hand garments offer an affordable alternative for families looking to stretch their budgets. “These clothes give us access to quality we couldn’t otherwise afford,” says a vendor in Kenya’s bustling Gikomba market, one of the largest second-hand clothing hubs in East Africa. “Second-hand clothing is not just a choice; it’s a necessity for many.” A driver of local economies Beyond affordability, the second-hand clothing trade is a significant economic driver. Across Africa, it creates jobs for millions of people involved in importing, sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. Entire industries have grown around the trade, from tailors who repair and repurpose garments to entrepreneurs who sell second-hand items at local markets. The sector also supports small-scale retailers, many of whom rely on second-hand clothing sales to sustain their businesses and livelihoods. In countries like Ghana, Uganda, and Tanzania, second-hand clothing markets are not just centers of commerce but vibrant communities that bring people together. An environmental necessity Globally, the fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to pollution and waste. The second-hand industry, however, provides a critical solution to the growing environmental crisis. By extending the life cycle of garments, the trade reduces the need for new clothing production and minimizes the volume of textiles that end up in landfills. Africa’s role in this circular economy is essential. Countries across the continent have become hubs for the reuse of clothing, helping to reduce waste from industrialized nations while meeting the needs of local populations. Experts argue that the second-hand trade not only addresses issues of affordability but also plays a vital part in combating the environmental impact of fast fashion. Challenges on the horizon Despite its importance, the second-hand industry in Africa faces significant challenges. The rise of fast fashion, driven by ultra-cheap brands like Shein and Temu, threatens to disrupt the market. These brands flood African markets with low-quality, new clothing, undermining the demand for second-hand garments. Additionally, some African governments have debated or implemented bans on second-hand clothing imports, arguing that they stifle the growth of local textile industries. While these policies aim to promote domestic production, critics warn that they risk eliminating a critical source of affordable clothing for millions of people. A system worth protecting The second-hand clothing industry is more than just a trade; it is a lifeline for communities across Africa and a cornerstone of sustainability in the global fashion system. Protecting this industry requires coordinated efforts from governments, international organisations, and consumers. Policies that support the circular economy, such as improving the quality of second-hand imports and addressing the environmental costs of fast fashion, are essential to safeguarding the future of the second-hand trade in Africa. As the world grapples with the environmental and economic challenges of the fashion industry, Africa’s secondhand markets stand as a testament to the power of reuse and the potential for a more sustainable and inclusive global economy. For many African countries the import of second-hand clothes from Europe is not just an opportunity for the population to get good clothes to a fair prize. It is also a large industry that create job opportunities and tax revenues. In Kenya only the authorities estimate that the industry create around two million jobs and provide clothes for more than 90% of the population. But there are forces in motion trying to disrupt the second-hand industry in Africa.  Written by Tinna Bondestam

The European second-hand clothing market has seen significant growth in recent years, and this trend is expected to continue. According to a report from Future Market Insights, the sales of second-hand clothing in Europe are projected to reach $71.9 billion in 2024, with an annual growth rate of 8.2% through 2034. This growth reflects increasing awareness of sustainability and a shift in consumer behavior toward more environmentally friendly consumption habits. Additionally, the rise of online resale platforms has made it easier for consumers to buy and sell pre-owned clothing, further driving market expansion. Despite this positive development, the industry faces challenges, including competition from fast fashion companies and the need for increased regulation to ensure the quality and safety of second-hand products. Nevertheless, the outlook for the second-hand market in Europe remains promising, with continued growth and innovation on the horizon.

A new study from Consulting for Africa (CFA) finds no evidence of dumping of second-hand clothing waste in Mozambique. Press reports of SHC waste streams or landfills are unfounded, authors of the report says. Instead, they found that the SHC sector is immensely important to Mozambique. First, it provides cheap, diverse and readily accessible clothing for millions living in poverty. At least 80% of the population relies on SHC for basic clothing needs. Second, the availability of affordable clothing creates budget headroom for other important household expenditures such as food, shelter and education. Third, the SHC sector is a significant employer. Read the whole report here

Fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu, backed by China’s manufacturing powerhouse, are increasingly targeting the global market, with a particular focus on Africa. But behind their advertisements and ultra-low prices propably lies a deeper strategy: undermining the thriving second-hand clothing industry, which is seen as a large obstacle for expansion. There are a few facts strongly supporting this. The African second-hand market, fueled by imports from wealthier nations, has long served as a vital component of the circular economy. It extends the lifespan of clothing, reduces waste, and provides affordable options for millions of consumers. However, Chinese ultra-fast-fashion brands are eager to expand their markets-shares. Ultra-Fast-Fashion vs. Second-hand: The Battle for Africa Africa has become a battleground for fashion dominance. The continent imports massive quantities of second-hand clothes, which sustain local businesses and create jobs in sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. For decades, this circular system has been both economically and environmentally sustainable. But fast fashion brands propably view this as a threat. Their business model depends on high turnover and mass consumption, leaving no room for durable garments to circulate in the economy. By flooding African markets with inexpensive, new clothing, brands like Shein and Temu are trying to persuade consumers to choose ultra-fast-fashion over second-hand, threatening the sustainability of the latter. So how do they influence? One known strategy is donating substantial amounts of money to foundations and organisations that promote information about the supposed negative impact of the second-hand market in Africa. The OR Foundation, for example, has received at least $15 million from Shein. This organisation has been one of the most vocal in promoting the claim that nearly half of second-hand imports to Ghana consist of unusable clothing that ends up in landfills. These claims have been debunked by several other studies, yet they continue to be widely circulated. Learn more: GUCDA Report refute claims of textile waste in Ghana Antoher organisation in Kenya, ACT, Africa Collecting Textiles, have claimed that up to 50% of the second-hand import to Kenya holds of waste upon arrival. These claims have also been refuted by several organisations and studies. ACT is also funded by Shein and has recieved 5 million euro in 2024. Learn more: EAC Report refute claims of textile waste in Kenya The environmental cost The fast fashion model comes with a massive environmental footprint. Producing millions of garments at breakneck speed requires enormous amounts of water, energy, and raw materials. These clothes are often poorly made, meaning they cannot be reused or recycled effectively, leading to increased textile waste. In contrast, the secondhand market plays a crucial role in reducing waste and mitigating the fashion industry’s climate impact. By extending the life of clothing and replacing the need for new production, it offers an environmentally friendly alternative that aligns with global sustainability goals. A well-functioning system under threat Shein and Temu’s approach threatens to disrupt a system that has worked efficiently for decades. Second-hand clothing not only supports sustainable practices but also provides affordable apparel to millions in low-income regions. Fast fashion, with its low prices and poor quality, undermines this system, creating a cycle of overconsumption and waste. Critics argue that fast fashion’s dominance in Africa is not just an economic or environmental issue but a form of market manipulation. By undercutting second-hand prices, these brands aim to establish a monopoly, leaving consumers with no choice but to buy their products. A global problem This disruption isn’t confined to Africa. As fast fashion brands expand their reach, they challenge the global second-hand industry, which has been instrumental in reducing textile waste in wealthier nations. If second-hand markets collapse, the result will likely be more landfill waste, higher carbon emissions, and a step backward for the circular economy. The call for action Environmental advocates are calling for stronger regulations on fast fashion brands, particularly in regions like Africa where their impact is most severe. Policies such as extended producer responsibility (EPR) and import tariffs on low-quality clothing could help curb the influence of fast fashion while protecting second-hand markets. Meanwhile, consumers play a vital role in countering this trend. By supporting second-hand clothing and prioritizing quality over quantity, individuals can help sustain a system that is both economically and environmentally beneficial. The battle between fast fashion and the second-hand market represents a crossroads for the global fashion industry. If brands like Shein and Temu succeed in dismantling the second-hand system, the consequences will be felt not just in Africa but across the world, as we grapple with the fallout of a disrupted circular economy and an ever-growing mountain of textile waste. Written by Thomas Lundkvist

On 13 March, EuRIC ( European Recycling Industries’ Confederation) and FEAD (European Federation of Waste Management and Environmental Services) issued a joint position paper, backing the introduction of an EU-wide mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles, while highlighting the urgent challenges confronting the post-consumer textile sector. With Member States having 30 months to establish EPR schemes, the textile collection, sorting, and recycling industries are in crisis and require immediate action. Starting 1 January 2025, the separate collection of textiles have increased volumes, but quality has deteriorated due to ultra-fast fashion. Meanwhile, capacity and outlets for processed textiles have not kept up, and handling non-reusable textiles remains costly. Without swift support, valuable materials will be lost, putting the industry’s sustainability and the EU’s resource autonomy at risk. To tackle these challenges, FEAD and EuRIC propose ten key measures to support the post-consumer textile sector until EPR schemes are fully operational..

A new study to investigate the trade of second-hand clothes from Europe´s sortingcenters to the markets of Kenya has been started by IVL, Environmenal Swedish Research Institute. The study aims to find out how the value chain is working, what costs are involved and what impact this has on the economy and from a social perspective. "We have been to Nairobi to study the market closely and we have already noticed that this is a quite conrolled and regulated industry in Kenya", says Amanda Martvall who is a researcher att IVL. The study will be published some time before the summer. Amanda Martvall , is a Sustainability Consultant and expert on textiles and circularity at the Swedish Environmental Research Institute.

Last week, CORDIS, the official European Commission platform for publishing information on EU-funded research projects and their results, announced the start of phase two of the EU-funded tExtended project, which aims to optimise textile flows and ensure materials retain their value in a sustainable way. The project seeks to develop a blueprint for a circular textile ecosystem, emphasising textile recovery, extended reuse, waste valorisation, and efficient recycling. After two years of research, tExtended is progressing with its Conceptual Framework, focusing on quality retention. This phase will prioritise classifying textile waste based on material quality, intended industrial use, economic factors, and the environmental impact of recycling processes.