There are no plans for an emergency fund to support struggling clothing collectors in Europe, says Commissioner Jessika Roswall. She responded to the European Parliament question from MEP Saskia Bricmont (Verts/ALE) and MEP David Cormand (Verts/ALE) which highlighted that social enterprises handling second-hand clothes and textile waste are struggling financially due to rising volumes of low-quality textiles, insufficient recycling capacity, and the EU requirement to collect textiles from January 2025. Bricmont and Cormand asked the Commission:  1. What measures it will take to prevent social enterprises from bearing the costs of textile waste management.  2. Whether an EU-level emergency fund will be established before the extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme starts in 2028, and how Member States could access it rapidly to cover related costs.  In her response, Roswall confirmed that the Commission recognises the challenges faced by the second-hand textile sector, mainly due to rising volumes of used textiles from fast fashion. The Commission does not plan an EU-level emergency fund but encourages Member States to complement EU measures with national initiatives and cohesion policy funds.  Under the revised Waste Framework Directive, Member States must introduce separate textile collection by 1 January 2025. The Commission also proposed extended producer responsibility (EPR), making producers finance collection and waste management. This should support reuse operators and social enterprises, which can keep collection points and may benefit from free textile waste collection under EPR systems.

When the EU decided that all member states must start collecting textiles separately by 2025, the aim was clear: to reduce one of the most environmentally harmful waste streams and create conditions for reuse and recycling. But the first attempts in several countries have backfired massively and actually worsened the problem. At the same time there is a constant push for the false narrative about textile waste from second-hand export to African countries. This obscures the view of the real problems and opportunities to create circularity. The textile sector is one of the world’s most polluting industries. It consumes vast amounts of water, chemicals and energy, while driving global resource use. On average, EU citizens buy around 13 kilos of new textiles per person every year, while much of the old clothing ends up in waste bins and is incinerated. Bringing textiles into a circular system is therefore central to Europe’s climate and resource goals. Sweden – a sad example of the challenges Sweden moved early, introducing a ban on textiles in household waste in January 2025. But the collection system soon collapsed when people started to throw dirty and damaged garments into collecting bins. Charities raised the alarm, recycling centres filled up, and the government was forced to backtrack. From October, households will once again be allowed to throw damaged textiles into residual waste – while clean and wearable items must still be collected separately. "We are in a tragic situation", says Tony Clark, CEO of Svenskt Avfall, Swedish Waste Management. Uneven progress across Europe The problems are not unique to Sweden. On the EU level, only about 15% of textiles are currently collected separately so Europe’s textile transition faces several hurdles at the moment: Insufficient infrastructure: - Too few collection points and weak logistics. - Limited sorting and recycling capacity: Technology not yet at the necessary scale. - Weak economic incentives: Recycled textiles are expensive and hard to sell, leaving systems dependent on subsidies. - Unclear responsibility: It is still unresolved whether consumers, municipalities, producers or charities should bear the main responsibility for collecting and/or sorting. Blaming African second-hand import At the same time there is a constant push in media for the narrative about textile waste in African countries. It is said that almost half of the second-hand import to countries like Ghana and Kenya is unusable clothes, discarded upon arrival.  But as we have documented in our earlier research , this is false.  In reality, local studies suggest that the demand for second-hand clothes actually exceeds supply and the "mountains of textile waste" has not been found anywhere. They are simply not there. Imported second-hand garments play a crucial economic role in many African communities, providing affordable clothing and supporting local livelihoods and the idea that half of it would be thrown away is totally illogical for anyone who has the least knowledge about it. Kwame Owino, CEO of Institute for Economic Affairs, Kenya, explain his research on the textile waste issue No focus on the real issues So instead of focusing on the real problems; overproduction and overconsumption in combination with a "wear it one time and then throw-away"-attitude, the debate is focusing and attacking those who already are an important part of a circular textile economy.  European policymakers considering stricter limits on second-hand exports should note that such restrictions could inadvertently worsen Europe’s own textile problem. If reusable garments have no outlet abroad, they are more likely to remain in European waste streams, increasing pressure on collection systems, recycling capacity, and local charities that handle textile sorting. In short, Europe risks creating its own “textile mountains” while addressing a problem that largely does not exist in Africa. A crucial transition Getting textile collection right is essential for the EU’s climate and environmental agenda. Experiences so far show that much more is needed: investment in recycling industries, harmonised standards, and clearer producer responsibility – alongside robust support for textiles reuse via global second-hand clothes exports to regions with genuine demand. Until then, Europe’s textile mountains will continue to grow – and old clothes will remain waste rather than a resource and opportunities for other parts of the world.

ReHubs announced its upcoming textile recycling strategy, designed as an industry-wide roadmap and portfolio of initiatives to scale textile-to-textile recycling and overcome the supply-demand deadlock.  ReHubs is a partnership-based collaboration hub focused on scaling up textile recycling in Europe. Its aim is to build industrial capacity for collecting, sorting, processing, and recycling textile waste. ReHubs’ strategy rests on two pillars: end-to-end supply chain management to deliver reliable, cost-competitive recycled fibres, and financing orchestration to mobilise and de-risk around €6 billion in investment. Targets include recycling 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2032 (35–40% of EU total) and creating up to 10,000 jobs.  The new strategy will be unveiled on 22 September 2025, with wider industry engagement planned at the Dornbirn Global Fibre Congress and Circular Textile Days.

EuRIC, European Recycling Industries’ Confederation, has published a position paper welcoming the EU’s initiative to reduce administrative burdens in environmental legislation (Environmental Omnibus).  EuRIC stressed the need to balance efficiency with ambitious environmental goals. The organisation specifically highlighted that future tools like the Digital Product Passport should be transparent, practical, and fit for recyclers and manufacturers.  Moreover, harmonised definitions and implementation under the Waste Framework Directive were essential to avoid single market fragmentation, alongside EU-wide end-of-waste criteria. Lastly, EuRIC called for the simplification of waste shipment rules with mutual recognition of certificates and harmonised weight regulations. Additionally, reporting should follow the “only once principle” with digitalisation and simplified criteria.

The European Union has officially adopted legislation that places full financial responsibility on textile producers for the end-of-life of their products, marking a significant step towards reducing textile waste and promoting a circular economy. Under the new Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regime, producers of all types of textiles—including clothing, footwear, bedding, accessories, curtains, and optionally mattresses—will be required to cover the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling of their products. This regulation applies to companies inside and outside the EU selling into EU markets, with micro-enterprises granted an extra year to comply. Industry associations have expressed varied reactions to the new legislation. EuRIC, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation, welcomed the introduction of mandatory EPR schemes for textiles, emphasizing the need for harmonized implementation across member states. In a joint statement with FEAD, the European Federation of Waste Management and Environmental Services, EuRIC highlighted that "the introduction of EPR schemes across the EU is essential to safeguard competition in the single market and to incentivize much-needed investments in collection, sorting, and recycling infrastructure for post-consumer textiles" EuRIC . However, concerns have been raised about the potential challenges of implementing these schemes effectively. The European Environment Bureau (EEB) and other NGOs have pointed out that the proposed EPR scheme for textiles omits setting targets for waste prevention, collection, reuse, and recycling. They advocate for the inclusion of specific targets to ensure that the legislation leads to tangible environmental benefits EEB - The European Environmental Bureau . Social enterprises, which play a vital role in the collection, sorting, reuse, and resale of textiles, must be fully recognized within the waste legislation and EPR frameworks. The Council of European Municipalities and Regions (CEMR) emphasizes that these actors should have fair access to funding and partnership opportunities, as their unique contributions can enhance the circular economy while delivering strong social outcomes CEMR CCRE . As the EU member states work towards establishing their EPR schemes within the next 30 months, the success of this legislation will depend on its implementation. Stakeholders across the textile value chain are calling for clear guidelines, adequate support for reuse and recycling infrastructure, and inclusive governance to ensure that the EPR schemes effectively contribute to a circular textile economy.

Starting in October, France will introduce a new system requiring clothing retailers to display the environmental cost of garments. This initiative, launched by several government ministers, aims to guide consumers toward more sustainable choices and encourage brands to adopt eco-friendly practices.  The environmental cost label will provide a clear, standardised score that reflects the full lifecycle of a garment. The label covers carbon emissions, water use, pesticide application, fossil fuel consumption, and microfiber pollution. The methodology is based on the EU’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF), expanded with French-specific criteria like clothing durability and the export of second-hand textiles outside Europe.  Participation will be voluntary for brands, but those who join must declare their data through a dedicated government portal. Major fashion chains and smaller eco-conscious labels are already preparing for large-scale rollout.  Source: French Ministry of Economy

At the EU Environment Council, Commissioner Jessika Roswall warned that without urgent EU and national action, Europe’s recycling industry faces serious threats. She urged Member States to use current waste regulation flexibilities and advance extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles. A strong recycling sector is essential for circularity and competitiveness but is strained by high energy costs, volatile material prices, and unfair competition from uncertified imports—especially in plastics and textiles.  With 2025 waste separation rules looming, Roswall said the crisis could worsen without support. While the 2026 Circular Economy Act will strengthen the framework, she called for immediate steps like tighter import controls and better use of EU funds. Italian Deputy Minister Vannia Gava backed early action but stressed the need for coordinated EU efforts.

Sweden said Thursday that some used clothes can now be thrown away with regular trash, after an EU ban on textile disposal overwhelmed municipalities and flooded recycling centres. The decision, effective October 1, follows the European Union's decision this year requiring member countries to implement separate textile recycling, alongside existing processes for glass, paper and food waste. Textiles are then sorted to either be reused or recycled as padding, isolation or composite materials. But recycling centres in Sweden and other EU countries have struggled to keep up with the influx that ensued. "Since the start of the year, the amount of textile waste collected has increased significantly, and with it the costs of sorting," the Swedish government said in a statement. The new regulation defines which textiles are to be sorted and which can be directly thrown in the trash, such as torn socks, stained textiles and overly worn clothes, environment minister Romina Pourmokhtari told reporters. Humana Sverige, which collects and sells used clothing, says that "the influx of textiles we receive has dramatically increased". Humana said it was closing 600 of its 1,300 collection points in order to limit the flow. "It's impossible for us to handle everything," the organisation explained. The issue is not limited to Sweden.Damaged clothes are sent to sorting centres in Europe, but the entire sector is overwhelmed due to this regulation.

A new alliance, the PRO Circularity Alliance, is set to join the European landscape and will be officially launched on 15 September in Frankfurt, Germany, bringing together PROs from various product streams, including textiles. The initiative was created to strengthen the role of PROs in Europe’s circular economy and to ensure that extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes remain effective, transparent, and fit for the future. The founding members of the Alliance are three German organisations: GRS Service GmbH, Stiftung GRS Batterien, and Reclay Holding GmbH.  Positioning itself as an open network, the PRO Circularity Alliance aims to engage in dialogue with European industry associations, policymakers, and stakeholders. Its mission is to develop common standards, drive efficiency gains, and reinforce the contribution of PROs to a sustainable circular economy. Selected PROs from across Europe will gather at the launch event to discuss the organisation’s objectives, governance model, and future programme of activities.

When the researchers followed the flow of second-hand clothing donations from Sweden to Kenya, they discovered a successful circular model and found no evidence for the claims that Europe is dumping it's textile waste in Kenya. The study was conducted and authored by IVL, the Swedish Environmental Research Institute, and commissioned by Humana Lithuania. The research explores the environmental, economic, and social benefits of exporting second-hand clothing (SHC) from Sweden to Kenya, at a pivotal time in Europe following the enforcement of mandatory textile collection under the EU Waste Framework Directive.   The study finds that a prevalent criticism – that exporting second-hand clothes to Africa constitutes dumping of low-quality garments – is not supported by evidence. Given Kenya’s high import taxes on mitumba, an East African term for second-hand clothes, importing textiles to discard them in landfills or incinerators would be economically unfeasible. Amanda Martvall , an expert from IVL and co-author of the report, said, "The mitumba market in Kenya is a practical demonstration of a successful circular economy model. It effectively extends textile life and clearly disproves the dumping narrative." IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute Read more: The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate

An article in Kenyan Daily Nation examines how the Russia-Ukraine conflict is reshaping Kenya’s second-hand clothing trade, disrupting shipping routes and driving up costs, including the price of mitumba. Since imports from Europe and the US are considered higher quality, the disruption of Mediterranean routes has directly affected mitumba sales in Gikomba and Toi markets. MCAK Chair Teresiah Wairimu explained:  "Because of this war, a shipment from Europe has to change route. A consignment that once took one-and-a-half months to reach Kenya now takes three months. This delay not only affects availability, but also raises import costs, and that expense must be recovered."  She added that inflation, shifting fashion trends, and a weakening shilling further complicate the trade:  "As the shilling depreciates, importation costs rise, which are passed on to traders and eventually buyers. Outdated styles fetch lower prices, while new designs, produced with costlier materials, naturally sell at higher rates. Poor-quality, old fashion items remain cheaper than trendy, high-quality pieces."  According to interviews conducted by the Daily Nation, the mitumba trade remains profitable and vital, offering traders a reliable source of daily income despite these challenges.

Ultra-fast fashion is worsening the textile waste crisis. On Wednesday, 13 Swiss organisations, including Public Eye and Fashion Revolution Switzerland, dumped five tons of old clothes in Bern’s Bundesplatz to protest the issue. Their message: Switzerland is drowning in discarded fashion. They’re calling on Parliament and the Federal Council to support fair, sustainable fashion through political action. With the rise of brands like Shein and Temu, global clothing production has soared, leading to 100,000 tons of barely worn, low-quality clothes being incinerated or exported from Switzerland each year, often made under exploitative conditions. Source: Take to News