When the researchers followed the flow of second-hand clothing donations from Sweden to Kenya, they discovered a successful circular model and found no evidence for the claims that Europe is dumping it's textile waste in Kenya. The study was conducted and authored by IVL, the Swedish Environmental Research Institute, and commissioned by Humana Lithuania. The research explores the environmental, economic, and social benefits of exporting second-hand clothing (SHC) from Sweden to Kenya, at a pivotal time in Europe following the enforcement of mandatory textile collection under the EU Waste Framework Directive.   The study finds that a prevalent criticism – that exporting second-hand clothes to Africa constitutes dumping of low-quality garments – is not supported by evidence. Given Kenya’s high import taxes on mitumba, an East African term for second-hand clothes, importing textiles to discard them in landfills or incinerators would be economically unfeasible. Amanda Martvall , an expert from IVL and co-author of the report, said, "The mitumba market in Kenya is a practical demonstration of a successful circular economy model. It effectively extends textile life and clearly disproves the dumping narrative." IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute Read more: The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate

An article in Kenyan Daily Nation examines how the Russia-Ukraine conflict is reshaping Kenya’s second-hand clothing trade, disrupting shipping routes and driving up costs, including the price of mitumba. Since imports from Europe and the US are considered higher quality, the disruption of Mediterranean routes has directly affected mitumba sales in Gikomba and Toi markets. MCAK Chair Teresiah Wairimu explained:  "Because of this war, a shipment from Europe has to change route. A consignment that once took one-and-a-half months to reach Kenya now takes three months. This delay not only affects availability, but also raises import costs, and that expense must be recovered."  She added that inflation, shifting fashion trends, and a weakening shilling further complicate the trade:  "As the shilling depreciates, importation costs rise, which are passed on to traders and eventually buyers. Outdated styles fetch lower prices, while new designs, produced with costlier materials, naturally sell at higher rates. Poor-quality, old fashion items remain cheaper than trendy, high-quality pieces."  According to interviews conducted by the Daily Nation, the mitumba trade remains profitable and vital, offering traders a reliable source of daily income despite these challenges.

Ultra-fast fashion is worsening the textile waste crisis. On Wednesday, 13 Swiss organisations, including Public Eye and Fashion Revolution Switzerland, dumped five tons of old clothes in Bern’s Bundesplatz to protest the issue. Their message: Switzerland is drowning in discarded fashion. They’re calling on Parliament and the Federal Council to support fair, sustainable fashion through political action. With the rise of brands like Shein and Temu, global clothing production has soared, leading to 100,000 tons of barely worn, low-quality clothes being incinerated or exported from Switzerland each year, often made under exploitative conditions. Source: Take to News

Newly enforced EU laws requiring mandatory separate collection of textile waste have triggered a system‑wide breakdown across Europe—most starkly demonstrated in Sweden—causing major disruptions to the second‑hand clothing ecosystem. Sweden, one of the first EU countries to adopt the January 1, 2025 deadline, has seen recycling centers reach breaking point. Municipal facilities reported a 60% surge in textile volumes  in early 2025, with collection centers “completely overwhelmed”  by the influx. Sweden's environment ministry announced new rules permitting exceptionally worn, stained, or tattered textiles to be discarded with regular waste beginning October 1, as systems buckle under pressure. Humana Sweden, handling over 1,300 collection points, has already shuttered nearly half— 600 sites closed —due to unmanageable intake and costs. Reuse att risk Experts warn that mixing low‑value, non‑reusable fabrics with higher quality donations is undermining existing reuse value chains. A joint study by IVL and Humana Lt reveals that poorly sorted collections harm transnational reuse systems that formerly shipped high‑quality garments from Sweden to second‑hand markets in Kenya and beyond. Reuse‑ready garments are being contaminated by unsellable waste, severely reducing their market value. Before the law change, Humana Lt sorted roughly 76% for reuse, but the emerging chaos is blurring lines between reusable and recycling‑bound textiles. A Broader EU Breakdown Although EU directives mandate all member states to implement separate textile collection by 2025 and progressive extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes covering costs of sorting and recycling, infrastructure remains inadequate across the continent. Local governments and civil society groups are lagging on compensation. Without EPR systems in full operation, the economic burden has fallen hard on municipal waste systems and charitable collectors, who face mounting costs with little support. For organizations like Artikel2 , Myrorna , and Human Bridge , the new law has converted thousands of collection sites into net liabilities—handling more garbage than reusable donations. Some are actively scaling back services or pulling out of municipal contracts altogether. Consequences for the Second‑Hand Industry The unfolding chaos presents a direct threat to the second‑hand clothing sector: Diminished quality  of donations, reducing resale potential. Higher sorting costs , limiting profitability. Reputational risk , as donations end up landfilled or incinerated contrary to donor intent. Reduced global reuse streams , as export quality drops and clean supply to markets like Kenya wanes. Europe’s fashion industry is particularly vulnerable to fast fashion’s influence. New EPR regulations aim to push producers to fund textile recycling—but the implementation gap leaves second‑hand chains at risk while systemic improvements lag. Sources: Humana Sweden Financial Times Vouge Business European Environmental Agency Texfash Apparel Views

The digital publication  The Exchange  recently published an article about the negative consequences of second-hand import and trade in Uganda. Unfortunately, the author has completely mixed up figures and conclusions. Why, one might wonder? The article begins by stating that the proportion of textile waste from the import of second-hand clothing in Uganda is massive:  “up to 48 tonnes discarded daily, most of it ending up in landfills.” Article in The Exchange How the author arrives at this figure is explained later in the article, where reference is made to a study on the subject conducted by  WasteAid, the Management Training and Advisory Centre, and the Uganda Tailors Association . According to this study, Uganda generates a total of 48 tonnes of textile waste per day , which corresponds to 3 percent of the country’s total waste. Converted into annual figures, this amounts to 17,520 tonnes per year . However this figure includes  all textile waste , regardless of its origin. The authors interpretation of this seems to be that  all  textile waste in Uganda comes directly from imported second-hand clothing, which is a somewhat strange conclusion. Textile waste normally consists of clothing and textiles that have gone through several life cycles and can no longer be used. In most countries through both Africa and Europe the total amount of textile waste is considered to be around 2-4 per cent. of the total waste stream, which is why this figure is't in any way controversial. However, further down in the article, it turns out that there are actual figures on how much of the imported second-hand clothing is considered unusable and therefore regarded as waste upon arrival. According to the study it is around  one percent  of the imported second-hand clothing. This equates to 800 tonnes annually . So, how can 800 tonnes annually suddenly become 17,520 tonnes annually? The difference is quite substantial, which makes the conclusions in the article rather difficult to understand. All clothing, wether it is recently produced or reused will eventually become waste. Also, if Uganda didn't import second-hand clothes, it would probably import new clothes or produce them domestically. These clothes will also one day become waste. Unfortunately, this is yet another example of the misinformation that has been spread for years in both African and European media – and which has been disproved countless times by investigations and studies. The difference this time is that the article actually refers to relevant figures – but draws the wrong conclusions. Link: The Exchange Article Link: Misconceptions about textile waste in Africa threatens the circular textile economy Link: Report on second-hand clothing in Uganda & Tanzania

A recent 2025 Fossil Free Fashion Scorecard by Stand.earth indicates a concerning trend among top fashion brands, with over 40% increasing their emissions. The scorecard evaluated 42 leading brands, revealing that only three (7%) are on track to meet the Paris Agreement's 1.5°C target. In contrast, 17 brands (40%) reported increased emissions compared to baseline years. Shein received an 'F' grade for a 170% rise in emissions over two years, joining Boohoo and Aritzia. H&M, however, earned the highest grade (B+), lauded for financing supplier decarbonization and engaging in climate advocacy.

Ireland is significantly boosting its commitment to a circular economy with an allocation of over €27 million from the Circular Economy Fund. Announced by Minister for Climate, Energy and the Environment Darragh O'Brien and Minister of State for the Circular Economy Alan Dillon, the funding will support various initiatives aimed at driving the nation's transition. This substantial investment underscores Ireland's dedication to fostering sustainable practices and reducing waste across different sectors.

Ahead of the June 17 Environment Council, the European Commission issued a stark warning about the pressing issues facing the EU's recycling sector. High energy costs, cheaper primary raw materials, unfair import competition, and a significant gap between recycling capacity and demand are hindering progress. Despite increasing waste volumes, plastic recycling is declining, and the textiles sector grapples with oversupply and low demand. To bolster the circular economy, the Commission is advocating for measures such as a Circular Economy Act, revised VAT rules, trade defense tools, and updated State Aid frameworks. Member States are being urged to strengthen Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, tighten import controls, promote fair competition, and accelerate waste legislation implementation to ensure the long-term viability of the industry.

On June 10, 2025, the French Senate overwhelmingly adopted a bill to regulate advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu. The legislation, passed with 337 votes to 1, aims to distinguish between traditional fast fashion and its ultra-fast counterpart, focusing on the latter to ensure legal enforceability. Key measures include a ban on influencer promotions, mandatory warning labels on ads detailing environmental and social impacts, and increased eco-contributions up to €10 per item by 2030 to fund domestic recycling. The bill, which also lays groundwork for a durability index, now returns to the National Assembly for further debate. While critics suggest corporate pressure weakened the bill, lawmakers assert the narrowed scope is vital for its legal viability.

It is often said that the second-hand industry undermines the local textile industry in African countries. For this reason, second-hand imports have even been banned in some African nations, such as South Africa. However, a study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented in Nairobi today shows that this conclusion is incorrect. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth. The Lead researcher for the report and CEO of the Institute , mr Kwame Owino, said: “Our findings make one thing clear: citizens and economies can gain the most when Mitumba and local manufacturing grow together. When we remove needless barriers, the combined strength of these sectors can create more jobs, more consumer choice, and more sustainable growth than if we stifle one in favour of the other. It’s a win-win for our economy and hardworking families relying on affordable clothing. This is about smart policymaking grounded in evidence – leveraging the strengths of each segment rather than picking winners and losers.” Mr Owimo presented a list with recommended policy actions to achieve this balanced growth: - Harmonise import rules and enforce quality standards for new and used clothing - Support local manufacturers through tax breaks and skills training - Promote eco-friendly practices across the industry T he Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) commissioned the study and during todays presentation the chairperson of MCAK, Teresia Wairimu Njenga stated “We believe that the future of the apparel sector is about strategic coexistence. With smart, inclusive policies, both sectors will thrive, fulfilling the promise of Agenda 2063.” Watch presentation on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvwHCJnLju8&t=6346s Read more: The whole report

The Kenyan government is ramping up efforts to revive its once-thriving textile industry, aiming to boost manufacturing and create jobs as part of its "Bottom-Up Economic Transformation Agenda." Officials have been studying models like Benin's to revitalize the cotton, textile, and apparel sector, recognizing its potential to significantly contribute to Kenya's industrialization goals. This push comes amidst discussions about the impact of the second-hand clothing trade, known locally as "mitumba." While mitumba provides affordable clothing and livelihoods for many, there are concerns it may hinder domestic textile production and contribute to environmental issues. By revitalizing the local industry, Kenya hopes to reduce its reliance on imported second-hand garments and strengthen its economy. However, a recent study from Institute of Economic Affairs, Kenya, presented a couple of weeks ago, shows that these concerns seems unfounded. Rather than competing, these industries complement each other — and if properly managed by authorities, this can lead to significantly higher long-term growth, the study suggests. Read more here

The RREUSE network has sent an open letter to EU environment ministers, urging them to address the deepening crisis in the used and waste textile sector during the upcoming June Environment Council.  The letter outlines the growing strain on social enterprises responsible for textile waste management: the second-hand market is saturated, sorting centres are closing, and increasing volumes of reusable textiles are being incinerated due to a lack of sustainable alternatives.  Despite the EU’s legal requirement for separate textile collection starting in January 2025, most Member States remain unprepared, lacking both the infrastructure and funding necessary to implement the mandate effectively.  In light of these urgent challenges, RREUSE calls for the immediate inclusion of the textile crisis on the Council’s agenda and the adoption of a Textile Emergency Action Plan (TEAP), backed by interim funding from existing EU instruments.  You can read the letter here RREUSE is an international network representing social enterprises active in reuse, repair, and recycling. The network brings together expertise in these three crucial steps towards waste prevention. RREUSE's members are committed to promoting environmental protection, social justice, and economic sustainability by extending the lifespan of products and reducing waste.