A wave of policy changes is currently underway in the EU, aimed at tackling the environmental damage caused by the textile industry. Yet early signs suggest these reforms may be making the problem much worse. One of the reasons might be that some of the data it is based on, is flawed. It has been claimed, that the export of second-hand clothing to African countries is in fact a way for European countries to dump unwanted clothing waste. Nearly all reports on the subject come from Ghana. So we decided to go there. This is what we found—or perhaps more accurately, what we didn’t. There is no doubt that the textile industry is among the most climate-damaging sectors. The environmental impact of clothing production is immense, and garments are increasingly made from synthetic, plastic-based materials. Add to that the massive overconsumption of clothing in the Global North and the mountains of textile waste it produces. But in recent years—since 2021, to be precise—a relatively small part of the textile industry has come under the spotlight: the trade and handling of second-hand clothing. Despite the fact that the second-hand sector arguably extends the lifespan of textiles, redistributes surplus clothing from the Global North to the Global South, and contributes both to job creation and affordable clothing for comparatively poorer populations, it has become the target of growing criticism. Why? The truth about the second-hand export debate not quite as it usually is described in media Claims of 40% waste in exports Critics argue that the problem lies in the quality of second-hand clothing exported from Europe to countries in, for example, Africa. A significant portion of these garments are said to be unusable—torn, dirty, or otherwise unfit for resale—and are therefore discarded as waste upon arrival. The figure most commonly cited in debates is that around 40% of second-hand clothing imports to African countries are considered unwearable and thus treated as waste. This exacerbates an already difficult waste management problem in African countries. The prevailing narrative that has gained traction in mainstream media, social media, debates, and conferences is that "Europe is dumping its clothing waste in African nations". Where are the mountains of waste? There is only one way to find out whether the claims about imported textile waste are true: go to Accra and visit the places where the waste is said to be. So this is what we did. We meet up with "Kevin" on one of Accra’s beaches. He says he has guided many TV crews to the places where textile waste can be found. For a small fee, he can guide us too, we gather. So the next day, we follow him to the beaches of Jamestown—perhaps the most frequently featured location in reports about second-hand waste in Ghana. When we arrive, the beach is full of young people picking up litter and trash. The cleanup is organised by the OR Foundation, a non-profit based in Ghana and run by two Americans. The foundation is one of the main forces behind the portrayal of Ghana as a dumping ground for the Global North’s clothing surplus. But the litter being collected on the beach, with few exceptions, isn’t clothing. Unsurprisingly, it’s almost entirely plastic. Jamestown Beach in Accra, Ghana. One of the beaches said to be overflowed with textile waste. Volonteers cleaning up Jamestown beach in Accra. A place said to be overflowed by textile waste. But in fact, most of it is plastic. It's not textiles, it´s plastic bags Kevin tells us that all the clothing has already been cleared from the beach. There are other places, he says, where we’ll be able to see the piles of clothing. So we head to another beach. But again, there are no textiles. We continue upriver, passing Korle Lagoon—another location frequently mentioned in reports about textile waste. Here, we find large amounts of litter. But very little of it is textile. At first sight the trash on the beach look like old clothes and textiles, and there are som pieces, but almost all of it is plastic. And particularly plastic bags. Plastic bags looks a lot like textiles from a distance. There are many landfills and dumping sites along the river. It’s been said that when it rains, clothing waste is washed along the river and out into the ocean. But nowhere do we find any mountains of textile waste. In some places, from a distance, it may look like clothing waste—but as we get closer, it becomes clear that it’s plastic. Plastic bags, from afar, can very easily be mistaken for textiles. There are some garments here and there at the beach, but it is estimately only a few percent of the total amount of waste. We visited all the places in Accra that are said to be where unwanted, discarded second-hand clothing ends up. We went to the beaches, we visited the dumping sites, we climbed onto and around several landfills, and we followed the river that runs through the city. But nowhere did we find any evidence that Ghana is a dumping ground for Europe’s cast-off clothing. On the banks of the river that runs trough Accra there is a lot of waste. But most of it is plastic. Nowhere are the mountains of textile waste to be found. It might look like textiles from a distance, but as you get closer, you discover that textiles is a very small part of it As we travel around trying to locate the textile waste reported on by media outlets around the world—and which has, to a large extent, shaped EU policies and regulations on second-hand clothing—it’s hard to understand how things ended up this way. Even if the beach we visited had truly been cleared of clothing, all the other places we’ve seen should be overflowing with textile waste, if the media coverage is to be believed. We leave Ghana puzzled. How did this happen? Who stands to gain from it? We’ll be back with more soon. Written and produced by Thomas Lundkvist & Kristjan Sigurjonsson More to watch: More to read: What does the traders say? Edward Atobrah Brinkley We meet Edward Atobrah Brinkley. He is the Secretary General of the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association, an organisation representing importers and retailers of second-hand clothing in Ghana. "Claims that 40% of second-hand imports end up as waste have been circulating in the media for years. But those of us who live and work in this industry have never been able to understand where these so-called mountains of clothing waste are. We've really searched—but we haven't found them," he says. “Every country has textile waste—and so do we,” says Atobrah. “But the waste consists of clothes that have been worn many times and then discarded. It doesn’t come from second-hand imports.” “Our research shows that textile waste makes up just a few percent of total waste,” he says. We learned that one such study was carried out by the Metropolitan Research and Education Bureau, which concluded that no more than 5% of imported second-hand clothing could be considered waste. You can read that study here . Protests in Ghana Traders in Ghana protest agains misinformation campaigns about textile waste This is exactly what importers and second-hand clothing traders in Ghana have been trying to say for years, but nobody want's to listen, as it seems. They argue that the reported volumes of waste supposedly generated by second-hand imports are completely inaccurate—and that the mountains of textile waste said to exist in Accra simply do not. As recently as March 2025, hundreds of people working in Accra’s second-hand industry took to the streets to protest what they claim is a deeply misleading portrayal of the trade. Their frustration is understandable: such claims threaten not only their livelihoods, but their very ability to earn a living and live with dignity. 2,180 shipping containers of textile waste The images and reports in media appear convincing. The message is that nearly half of Ghana’s imports of second-hand clothing are unusable and end up directly in landfills and on beaches. But to anyone with even a basic understanding of how the second-hand clothing trade works, this claim sounds both unlikely and illogical. Ghana imports over 130,000 tonnes of second-hand clothing each year. If 40% of that were waste, it would amount to around 2,180 shipping containers annually—or roughly 182 containers every month. That’s a vast amount of textile waste. But it would also mean that importers are unable to sell half of what they bring in—a remarkably bad deal by any measure. Especially considering they pay both duties and taxes to bring the clothes into the country.

Textile Exchange released its annual Materials Market Report alongside its Materials Benchmark Insights and Trends 2025 and its Climate+ Dashboard. Together, the reports show global fiber production hit a record 132 million tons in 2024, more than double since 2000. Despite nearly a decade of climate pledges, raw material use across fashion, footwear, and home textiles keeps climbing, pushing the industry further from the 1.5°C climate goal of limiting global warming to safe levels.  The report highlights fashion’s central contradiction: brands are sourcing more “preferred” materials, but those gains are outpaced by the relentless growth in overall production. As long as the industry keeps making more materials, especially fossil-fuel synthetics, emissions will continue to rise.  The takeaway is that sourcing improvements matter, but on their own, they are not enough to offset the impact of increasing production.  Links: Materials Benchmark Insights Climate+ Dashboard

There are no plans for an emergency fund to support struggling clothing collectors in Europe, says Commissioner Jessika Roswall. She responded to the European Parliament question from MEP Saskia Bricmont (Verts/ALE) and MEP David Cormand (Verts/ALE) which highlighted that social enterprises handling second-hand clothes and textile waste are struggling financially due to rising volumes of low-quality textiles, insufficient recycling capacity, and the EU requirement to collect textiles from January 2025. Bricmont and Cormand asked the Commission:  1. What measures it will take to prevent social enterprises from bearing the costs of textile waste management.  2. Whether an EU-level emergency fund will be established before the extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme starts in 2028, and how Member States could access it rapidly to cover related costs.  In her response, Roswall confirmed that the Commission recognises the challenges faced by the second-hand textile sector, mainly due to rising volumes of used textiles from fast fashion. The Commission does not plan an EU-level emergency fund but encourages Member States to complement EU measures with national initiatives and cohesion policy funds.  Under the revised Waste Framework Directive, Member States must introduce separate textile collection by 1 January 2025. The Commission also proposed extended producer responsibility (EPR), making producers finance collection and waste management. This should support reuse operators and social enterprises, which can keep collection points and may benefit from free textile waste collection under EPR systems.

When the EU decided that all member states must start collecting textiles separately by 2025, the aim was clear: to reduce one of the most environmentally harmful waste streams and create conditions for reuse and recycling. But the first attempts in several countries have backfired massively and actually worsened the problem. At the same time there is a constant push for the false narrative about textile waste from second-hand export to African countries. This obscures the view of the real problems and opportunities to create circularity. The textile sector is one of the world’s most polluting industries. It consumes vast amounts of water, chemicals and energy, while driving global resource use. On average, EU citizens buy around 13 kilos of new textiles per person every year, while much of the old clothing ends up in waste bins and is incinerated. Bringing textiles into a circular system is therefore central to Europe’s climate and resource goals. Sweden – a sad example of the challenges Sweden moved early, introducing a ban on textiles in household waste in January 2025. But the collection system soon collapsed when people started to throw dirty and damaged garments into collecting bins. Charities raised the alarm, recycling centres filled up, and the government was forced to backtrack. From October, households will once again be allowed to throw damaged textiles into residual waste – while clean and wearable items must still be collected separately. "We are in a tragic situation", says Tony Clark, CEO of Svenskt Avfall, Swedish Waste Management. Uneven progress across Europe The problems are not unique to Sweden. On the EU level, only about 15% of textiles are currently collected separately so Europe’s textile transition faces several hurdles at the moment: Insufficient infrastructure: - Too few collection points and weak logistics. - Limited sorting and recycling capacity: Technology not yet at the necessary scale. - Weak economic incentives: Recycled textiles are expensive and hard to sell, leaving systems dependent on subsidies. - Unclear responsibility: It is still unresolved whether consumers, municipalities, producers or charities should bear the main responsibility for collecting and/or sorting. Blaming African second-hand import At the same time there is a constant push in media for the narrative about textile waste in African countries. It is said that almost half of the second-hand import to countries like Ghana and Kenya is unusable clothes, discarded upon arrival.  But as we have documented in our earlier research , this is false.  In reality, local studies suggest that the demand for second-hand clothes actually exceeds supply and the "mountains of textile waste" has not been found anywhere. They are simply not there. Imported second-hand garments play a crucial economic role in many African communities, providing affordable clothing and supporting local livelihoods and the idea that half of it would be thrown away is totally illogical for anyone who has the least knowledge about it. Kwame Owino, CEO of Institute for Economic Affairs, Kenya, explain his research on the textile waste issue No focus on the real issues So instead of focusing on the real problems; overproduction and overconsumption in combination with a "wear it one time and then throw-away"-attitude, the debate is focusing and attacking those who already are an important part of a circular textile economy.  European policymakers considering stricter limits on second-hand exports should note that such restrictions could inadvertently worsen Europe’s own textile problem. If reusable garments have no outlet abroad, they are more likely to remain in European waste streams, increasing pressure on collection systems, recycling capacity, and local charities that handle textile sorting. In short, Europe risks creating its own “textile mountains” while addressing a problem that largely does not exist in Africa. A crucial transition Getting textile collection right is essential for the EU’s climate and environmental agenda. Experiences so far show that much more is needed: investment in recycling industries, harmonised standards, and clearer producer responsibility – alongside robust support for textiles reuse via global second-hand clothes exports to regions with genuine demand. Until then, Europe’s textile mountains will continue to grow – and old clothes will remain waste rather than a resource and opportunities for other parts of the world.

ReHubs announced its upcoming textile recycling strategy, designed as an industry-wide roadmap and portfolio of initiatives to scale textile-to-textile recycling and overcome the supply-demand deadlock.  ReHubs is a partnership-based collaboration hub focused on scaling up textile recycling in Europe. Its aim is to build industrial capacity for collecting, sorting, processing, and recycling textile waste. ReHubs’ strategy rests on two pillars: end-to-end supply chain management to deliver reliable, cost-competitive recycled fibres, and financing orchestration to mobilise and de-risk around €6 billion in investment. Targets include recycling 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2032 (35–40% of EU total) and creating up to 10,000 jobs.  The new strategy will be unveiled on 22 September 2025, with wider industry engagement planned at the Dornbirn Global Fibre Congress and Circular Textile Days.

EuRIC, European Recycling Industries’ Confederation, has published a position paper welcoming the EU’s initiative to reduce administrative burdens in environmental legislation (Environmental Omnibus).  EuRIC stressed the need to balance efficiency with ambitious environmental goals. The organisation specifically highlighted that future tools like the Digital Product Passport should be transparent, practical, and fit for recyclers and manufacturers.  Moreover, harmonised definitions and implementation under the Waste Framework Directive were essential to avoid single market fragmentation, alongside EU-wide end-of-waste criteria. Lastly, EuRIC called for the simplification of waste shipment rules with mutual recognition of certificates and harmonised weight regulations. Additionally, reporting should follow the “only once principle” with digitalisation and simplified criteria.

The European Union has officially adopted legislation that places full financial responsibility on textile producers for the end-of-life of their products, marking a significant step towards reducing textile waste and promoting a circular economy. Under the new Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regime, producers of all types of textiles—including clothing, footwear, bedding, accessories, curtains, and optionally mattresses—will be required to cover the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling of their products. This regulation applies to companies inside and outside the EU selling into EU markets, with micro-enterprises granted an extra year to comply. Industry associations have expressed varied reactions to the new legislation. EuRIC, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation, welcomed the introduction of mandatory EPR schemes for textiles, emphasizing the need for harmonized implementation across member states. In a joint statement with FEAD, the European Federation of Waste Management and Environmental Services, EuRIC highlighted that "the introduction of EPR schemes across the EU is essential to safeguard competition in the single market and to incentivize much-needed investments in collection, sorting, and recycling infrastructure for post-consumer textiles" EuRIC . However, concerns have been raised about the potential challenges of implementing these schemes effectively. The European Environment Bureau (EEB) and other NGOs have pointed out that the proposed EPR scheme for textiles omits setting targets for waste prevention, collection, reuse, and recycling. They advocate for the inclusion of specific targets to ensure that the legislation leads to tangible environmental benefits EEB - The European Environmental Bureau . Social enterprises, which play a vital role in the collection, sorting, reuse, and resale of textiles, must be fully recognized within the waste legislation and EPR frameworks. The Council of European Municipalities and Regions (CEMR) emphasizes that these actors should have fair access to funding and partnership opportunities, as their unique contributions can enhance the circular economy while delivering strong social outcomes CEMR CCRE . As the EU member states work towards establishing their EPR schemes within the next 30 months, the success of this legislation will depend on its implementation. Stakeholders across the textile value chain are calling for clear guidelines, adequate support for reuse and recycling infrastructure, and inclusive governance to ensure that the EPR schemes effectively contribute to a circular textile economy.

Starting in October, France will introduce a new system requiring clothing retailers to display the environmental cost of garments. This initiative, launched by several government ministers, aims to guide consumers toward more sustainable choices and encourage brands to adopt eco-friendly practices.  The environmental cost label will provide a clear, standardised score that reflects the full lifecycle of a garment. The label covers carbon emissions, water use, pesticide application, fossil fuel consumption, and microfiber pollution. The methodology is based on the EU’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF), expanded with French-specific criteria like clothing durability and the export of second-hand textiles outside Europe.  Participation will be voluntary for brands, but those who join must declare their data through a dedicated government portal. Major fashion chains and smaller eco-conscious labels are already preparing for large-scale rollout.  Source: French Ministry of Economy

At the EU Environment Council, Commissioner Jessika Roswall warned that without urgent EU and national action, Europe’s recycling industry faces serious threats. She urged Member States to use current waste regulation flexibilities and advance extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles. A strong recycling sector is essential for circularity and competitiveness but is strained by high energy costs, volatile material prices, and unfair competition from uncertified imports—especially in plastics and textiles.  With 2025 waste separation rules looming, Roswall said the crisis could worsen without support. While the 2026 Circular Economy Act will strengthen the framework, she called for immediate steps like tighter import controls and better use of EU funds. Italian Deputy Minister Vannia Gava backed early action but stressed the need for coordinated EU efforts.

Sweden said Thursday that some used clothes can now be thrown away with regular trash, after an EU ban on textile disposal overwhelmed municipalities and flooded recycling centres. The decision, effective October 1, follows the European Union's decision this year requiring member countries to implement separate textile recycling, alongside existing processes for glass, paper and food waste. Textiles are then sorted to either be reused or recycled as padding, isolation or composite materials. But recycling centres in Sweden and other EU countries have struggled to keep up with the influx that ensued. "Since the start of the year, the amount of textile waste collected has increased significantly, and with it the costs of sorting," the Swedish government said in a statement. The new regulation defines which textiles are to be sorted and which can be directly thrown in the trash, such as torn socks, stained textiles and overly worn clothes, environment minister Romina Pourmokhtari told reporters. Humana Sverige, which collects and sells used clothing, says that "the influx of textiles we receive has dramatically increased". Humana said it was closing 600 of its 1,300 collection points in order to limit the flow. "It's impossible for us to handle everything," the organisation explained. The issue is not limited to Sweden.Damaged clothes are sent to sorting centres in Europe, but the entire sector is overwhelmed due to this regulation.

A new alliance, the PRO Circularity Alliance, is set to join the European landscape and will be officially launched on 15 September in Frankfurt, Germany, bringing together PROs from various product streams, including textiles. The initiative was created to strengthen the role of PROs in Europe’s circular economy and to ensure that extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes remain effective, transparent, and fit for the future. The founding members of the Alliance are three German organisations: GRS Service GmbH, Stiftung GRS Batterien, and Reclay Holding GmbH.  Positioning itself as an open network, the PRO Circularity Alliance aims to engage in dialogue with European industry associations, policymakers, and stakeholders. Its mission is to develop common standards, drive efficiency gains, and reinforce the contribution of PROs to a sustainable circular economy. Selected PROs from across Europe will gather at the launch event to discuss the organisation’s objectives, governance model, and future programme of activities.

When the researchers followed the flow of second-hand clothing donations from Sweden to Kenya, they discovered a successful circular model and found no evidence for the claims that Europe is dumping it's textile waste in Kenya. The study was conducted and authored by IVL, the Swedish Environmental Research Institute, and commissioned by Humana Lithuania. The research explores the environmental, economic, and social benefits of exporting second-hand clothing (SHC) from Sweden to Kenya, at a pivotal time in Europe following the enforcement of mandatory textile collection under the EU Waste Framework Directive.   The study finds that a prevalent criticism – that exporting second-hand clothes to Africa constitutes dumping of low-quality garments – is not supported by evidence. Given Kenya’s high import taxes on mitumba, an East African term for second-hand clothes, importing textiles to discard them in landfills or incinerators would be economically unfeasible. Amanda Martvall , an expert from IVL and co-author of the report, said, "The mitumba market in Kenya is a practical demonstration of a successful circular economy model. It effectively extends textile life and clearly disproves the dumping narrative." IVL - Swedish Environmental Research Institute Read more: The elusive truth behind the second-hand export debate