One of the organisations collecting the most clothing in Sweden risks going under due to new rules on textile collection. Yesterday, Human Bridge in a pressrelease announced that the pressure they are under may soon force them to limit their collection operations. This would further worsen an already serious problem with textile waste in Sweden. Containers in Sweden overflowed with textiles Since the turn of the year, Swedish authorities have implemented an EU directive stipulating that textile waste may no longer be disposed of in household rubbish. As a result, collection organisations such as Human Bridge have been flooded with textiles they struggle to handle. Regulations surrounding textile waste and second-hand clothing have grown increasingly complex in recent years. And although these rules are intended to improve waste management, reduce negative climate impact, and stimulate a more circular economy, the consequences now appear to be quite the opposite. Previously, organisations collecting clothes would sell them on to sorting companies, usually based in Europe. These companies would sort the garments into hundreds of different categories and then sell them on to domestic second-hand markets or export them to other countries. One of the EU’s aims has been to limit the export of unusable clothing that risks ending up in landfills in African countries—despite there being no real evidence that such exports actually take place. See link below. Nevertheless, new regulations have been pushed through. The new rules affect collection organisations in two ways: They can no longer sell the collected clothes to other EU countries unless they have first been sorted. Unsorted clothing is now considered waste. Sorting clothing is extremely costly, as it requires a great deal of manpower, and this alone makes it difficult for collection organisations or companies to remain financially viable. When consumers are no longer allowed to dispose of textile waste in household rubbish, the proportion of textiles collected that cannot be reused increases, placing even greater pressure on sorting facilities. Human Bridge is now appealing to Swedish municipalities to help improve the situation. If collection organisations in Sweden are unable to manage this, the mountains of textiles will become colossal, usable clothing will be incinerated, and all ambitions for better, climate-friendly management will quite literally go up in smoke. Listen to Cristofer Ståhlgren from Human Bridge when he explains why organisations like Human Bridge is so important and why they are struggling so much. Read more: Misconceptions about textile waste in Africa threatens circular textile economy

The second-hand industry may well be one of the most misunderstood industries in the world. All sorts of rumors circulate in the media and in debates that most of it is garbage or that what you donate to collections is just burned. But for many years the second-hand industry has been a well-developed trade chain that generates not only cheap clothes but also jobs and a circular economy. Perhaps the most important ingredient in the trade chain is sorting clothes. It is a craft that can take many years to become really good at. We have visited Oman and one of the world's most efficient sorting facilities.

The second-hand clothing industry has become an indispensable part of daily life in Africa, providing affordable apparel, supporting local economies, and playing a critical role in global sustainability efforts. For decades, the trade in second-hand garments—often imported from wealthier nations—has fueled a thriving circular economy that benefits millions across the continent. In many African countries, second-hand clothing, often referred to as “mitumba” in East Africa, is the primary source of affordable fashion for the population. With high poverty rates and limited access to new, high-quality clothing, second-hand garments offer an affordable alternative for families looking to stretch their budgets. “These clothes give us access to quality we couldn’t otherwise afford,” says a vendor in Kenya’s bustling Gikomba market, one of the largest second-hand clothing hubs in East Africa. “Second-hand clothing is not just a choice; it’s a necessity for many.” A driver of local economies Beyond affordability, the second-hand clothing trade is a significant economic driver. Across Africa, it creates jobs for millions of people involved in importing, sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. Entire industries have grown around the trade, from tailors who repair and repurpose garments to entrepreneurs who sell second-hand items at local markets. The sector also supports small-scale retailers, many of whom rely on second-hand clothing sales to sustain their businesses and livelihoods. In countries like Ghana, Uganda, and Tanzania, second-hand clothing markets are not just centers of commerce but vibrant communities that bring people together. An environmental necessity Globally, the fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to pollution and waste. The second-hand industry, however, provides a critical solution to the growing environmental crisis. By extending the life cycle of garments, the trade reduces the need for new clothing production and minimizes the volume of textiles that end up in landfills. Africa’s role in this circular economy is essential. Countries across the continent have become hubs for the reuse of clothing, helping to reduce waste from industrialized nations while meeting the needs of local populations. Experts argue that the second-hand trade not only addresses issues of affordability but also plays a vital part in combating the environmental impact of fast fashion. Challenges on the horizon Despite its importance, the second-hand industry in Africa faces significant challenges. The rise of fast fashion, driven by ultra-cheap brands like Shein and Temu, threatens to disrupt the market. These brands flood African markets with low-quality, new clothing, undermining the demand for second-hand garments. Additionally, some African governments have debated or implemented bans on second-hand clothing imports, arguing that they stifle the growth of local textile industries. While these policies aim to promote domestic production, critics warn that they risk eliminating a critical source of affordable clothing for millions of people. A system worth protecting The second-hand clothing industry is more than just a trade; it is a lifeline for communities across Africa and a cornerstone of sustainability in the global fashion system. Protecting this industry requires coordinated efforts from governments, international organisations, and consumers. Policies that support the circular economy, such as improving the quality of second-hand imports and addressing the environmental costs of fast fashion, are essential to safeguarding the future of the second-hand trade in Africa. As the world grapples with the environmental and economic challenges of the fashion industry, Africa’s secondhand markets stand as a testament to the power of reuse and the potential for a more sustainable and inclusive global economy. For many African countries the import of second-hand clothes from Europe is not just an opportunity for the population to get good clothes to a fair prize. It is also a large industry that create job opportunities and tax revenues. In Kenya only the authorities estimate that the industry create around two million jobs and provide clothes for more than 90% of the population. But there are forces in motion trying to disrupt the second-hand industry in Africa.  Written by Tinna Bondestam

The European second-hand clothing market has seen significant growth in recent years, and this trend is expected to continue. According to a report from Future Market Insights, the sales of second-hand clothing in Europe are projected to reach $71.9 billion in 2024, with an annual growth rate of 8.2% through 2034. This growth reflects increasing awareness of sustainability and a shift in consumer behavior toward more environmentally friendly consumption habits. Additionally, the rise of online resale platforms has made it easier for consumers to buy and sell pre-owned clothing, further driving market expansion. Despite this positive development, the industry faces challenges, including competition from fast fashion companies and the need for increased regulation to ensure the quality and safety of second-hand products. Nevertheless, the outlook for the second-hand market in Europe remains promising, with continued growth and innovation on the horizon.

A new study from Consulting for Africa (CFA) finds no evidence of dumping of second-hand clothing waste in Mozambique. Press reports of SHC waste streams or landfills are unfounded, authors of the report says. Instead, they found that the SHC sector is immensely important to Mozambique. First, it provides cheap, diverse and readily accessible clothing for millions living in poverty. At least 80% of the population relies on SHC for basic clothing needs. Second, the availability of affordable clothing creates budget headroom for other important household expenditures such as food, shelter and education. Third, the SHC sector is a significant employer. Read the whole report here

On 13 March, EuRIC ( European Recycling Industries’ Confederation) and FEAD (European Federation of Waste Management and Environmental Services) issued a joint position paper, backing the introduction of an EU-wide mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles, while highlighting the urgent challenges confronting the post-consumer textile sector. With Member States having 30 months to establish EPR schemes, the textile collection, sorting, and recycling industries are in crisis and require immediate action. Starting 1 January 2025, the separate collection of textiles have increased volumes, but quality has deteriorated due to ultra-fast fashion. Meanwhile, capacity and outlets for processed textiles have not kept up, and handling non-reusable textiles remains costly. Without swift support, valuable materials will be lost, putting the industry’s sustainability and the EU’s resource autonomy at risk. To tackle these challenges, FEAD and EuRIC propose ten key measures to support the post-consumer textile sector until EPR schemes are fully operational..

A new study to investigate the trade of second-hand clothes from Europe´s sortingcenters to the markets of Kenya has been started by IVL, Environmenal Swedish Research Institute. The study aims to find out how the value chain is working, what costs are involved and what impact this has on the economy and from a social perspective. "We have been to Nairobi to study the market closely and we have already noticed that this is a quite conrolled and regulated industry in Kenya", says Amanda Martvall who is a researcher att IVL. The study will be published some time before the summer. Amanda Martvall , is a Sustainability Consultant and expert on textiles and circularity at the Swedish Environmental Research Institute.

Last week, CORDIS, the official European Commission platform for publishing information on EU-funded research projects and their results, announced the start of phase two of the EU-funded tExtended project, which aims to optimise textile flows and ensure materials retain their value in a sustainable way. The project seeks to develop a blueprint for a circular textile ecosystem, emphasising textile recovery, extended reuse, waste valorisation, and efficient recycling. After two years of research, tExtended is progressing with its Conceptual Framework, focusing on quality retention. This phase will prioritise classifying textile waste based on material quality, intended industrial use, economic factors, and the environmental impact of recycling processes.