Why China’s ultra fast fashion industry probably doesn’t want you to buy second-hand clothes
- Thomas Lundkvist
- Oct 15
- 3 min read
Fast fashion giants like Shein, backed by China’s manufacturing powerhouse, are increasingly targeting the global market, with a particular focus on Africa. But behind their advertisements and ultra-low prices there might be a deeper strategy: undermining the thriving second-hand clothing industry, which is seen as a large obstacle for expansion. There are a few facts strongly supporting this theory.
The African second-hand market, fueled by imports from wealthier nations, has long served as a vital component of the circular economy. It extends the lifespan of clothing, reduces waste, and provides affordable options for millions of consumers. However, Chinese ultra fast fashion brands are eager to expand their markets-shares.
China's ultra fast fashion industry probably doesn't want you to buy second-hand clothes
Africa has become a battleground for fashion dominance. The continent imports massive quantities of second-hand clothes, which sustain local businesses and create jobs in sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. For decades, this circular system has been both economically and environmentally sustainable.
But fast fashion brands probably view this as a threat. Their business model depends on high turnover and mass consumption, leaving no room for durable garments to circulate in the economy. This leads to the assumption that China's ultra fast fashion industry probably don't want you to buy second-hand clothes.
Supporting NGO:s with a waste narrative
One strategy seems to be donating substantial amounts of money to foundations and organisations that promote information about the supposed negative impact of the second-hand market in Africa. The OR Foundation, for example, has received at least $15 million from Shein. This organisation has been one of the most vocal in promoting the claim that nearly half of second-hand imports to Ghana consist of unusable clothing that ends up in landfills. But these claims have been debunked by several other studies, yet they continue to be widely circulated.
Another organisation in Kenya, ACT, Africa Collecting Textiles, have made similar claims about the second-hand import to Kenya. These claims have also been refuted by several organisations and studies. ACT is also partly funded by Shein and received 5 million Euro in 2024.
The environmental cost
The ultra fast fashion model comes with a massive environmental footprint. Producing millions of garments at breakneck speed requires enormous amounts of water, energy, and raw materials. These clothes are often poorly made, meaning they cannot be reused or recycled effectively, leading to increased textile waste.
In contrast, the secondhand market plays a crucial role in reducing waste and mitigating the fashion industry’s climate impact. By extending the life of clothing and replacing the need for new production, it offers an environmentally friendly alternative that aligns with global sustainability goals.
A well-functioning system under threat
Shein and other similar brands approach threatens to disrupt a system that has worked efficiently for decades. Second-hand clothing not only supports sustainable practices but also provides affordable apparel to millions in low-income regions. Ultra fast fashion, with its low prices and poor quality, undermines this system, creating a cycle of overconsumption and waste.
This disruption isn’t confined to Africa. As ultra fast fashion brands expand their reach, they challenge the global second-hand industry, which has been instrumental in reducing textile waste in wealthier nations. If second-hand markets collapse, the result will likely be more landfill waste, higher carbon emissions, and a step backward for the circular economy. Opposite to what politicians, policymakers and the public in Europe want.
The call for action
Environmental advocates are calling for stronger regulations on ultra fast fashion brands, particularly in regions like Africa where their impact is most severe. Policies such as extended producer responsibility (EPR) and import tariffs could help curb the influence of ultra fast fashion.
Shein’s financial support for organizations that criticize the second-hand clothing trade appears to form part of a broader strategy. While often presented as sustainability efforts, such initiatives raise questions about the underlying motives behind them.
Written by
Thomas Lundkvist