The lifeline of fashion: The vital role of the second-hand industry in Africa

The second-hand clothing industry has become an indispensable part of daily life in Africa, providing affordable apparel, supporting local economies, and playing a critical role in global sustainability efforts. For decades, the trade in second-hand garments—often imported from wealthier nations—has fueled a thriving circular economy that benefits millions across the continent.

In many African countries, second-hand clothing, often referred to as “mitumba” in East Africa, is the primary source of affordable fashion for the population. With high poverty rates and limited access to new, high-quality clothing, second-hand garments offer an affordable alternative for families looking to stretch their budgets.

“These clothes give us access to quality we couldn’t otherwise afford,” says a vendor in Kenya’s bustling Gikomba market, one of the largest second-hand clothing hubs in East Africa. “Second-hand clothing is not just a choice; it’s a necessity for many.”

A driver of local economies

Beyond affordability, the second-hand clothing trade is a significant economic driver. Across Africa, it creates jobs for millions of people involved in importing, sorting, repairing, and reselling garments. Entire industries have grown around the trade, from tailors who repair and repurpose garments to entrepreneurs who sell second-hand items at local markets.

The sector also supports small-scale retailers, many of whom rely on second-hand clothing sales to sustain their businesses and livelihoods. In countries like Ghana, Uganda, and Tanzania, second-hand clothing markets are not just centers of commerce but vibrant communities that bring people together.

An environmental necessity

Globally, the fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to pollution and waste. The second-hand industry, however, provides a critical solution to the growing environmental crisis. By extending the life cycle of garments, the trade reduces the need for new clothing production and minimizes the volume of textiles that end up in landfills.

Africa’s role in this circular economy is essential. Countries across the continent have become hubs for the reuse of clothing, helping to reduce waste from industrialized nations while meeting the needs of local populations. Experts argue that the second-hand trade not only addresses issues of affordability but also plays a vital part in combating the environmental impact of fast fashion.

Challenges on the horizon

Despite its importance, the second-hand industry in Africa faces significant challenges. The rise of fast fashion, driven by ultra-cheap brands like Shein and Temu, threatens to disrupt the market. These brands flood African markets with low-quality, new clothing, undermining the demand for second-hand garments.

Additionally, some African governments have debated or implemented bans on second-hand clothing imports, arguing that they stifle the growth of local textile industries. While these policies aim to promote domestic production, critics warn that they risk eliminating a critical source of affordable clothing for millions of people.

A system worth protecting

The second-hand clothing industry is more than just a trade; it is a lifeline for communities across Africa and a cornerstone of sustainability in the global fashion system. Protecting this industry requires coordinated efforts from governments, international organisations, and consumers.

Policies that support the circular economy, such as improving the quality of second-hand imports and addressing the environmental costs of fast fashion, are essential to safeguarding the future of the second-hand trade in Africa.

As the world grapples with the environmental and economic challenges of the fashion industry, Africa’s secondhand markets stand as a testament to the power of reuse and the potential for a more sustainable and inclusive global economy.

For many African countries the import of second-hand clothes from Europe is not just an opportunity for the population to get good clothes to a fair prize. It is also a large industry that create job opportunities and tax revenues.

In Kenya only the authorities estimate that the industry create around two million jobs and provide clothes for more than 90% of the population.

But there are forces in motion trying to disrupt the second-hand industry in Africa. 

Written by Tinna Bondestam