Temporary reprieve for U.S. second-hand textile exports

U.S. exporters of used textiles have been granted a welcome, if short-lived, reprieve. In mid-January, the U.S. House of Representatives approved a one-year extension of the African Growth and Opportunity Act, AGOA, temporarily preserving duty-free trade with eligible African partner countries. The decision offers immediate relief, but also highlights how fragile the global conditions for reuse and circular textile flows remain.

AGOA and the Trade Framework for Used Textiles

Introduced in 2000, AGOA was designed to strengthen trade relations between the United States and countries in sub-Saharan Africa. Over time, it has become a key pillar for the U.S. textile reuse industry, particularly for exporters of used clothing. Large volumes of secondhand garments are shipped each year to African markets, where items are resold, repaired, sorted or recycled. Without preferential trade terms, many of these export-dependent business models would quickly come under pressure.

Political Uncertainty in Secondhand Clothing Trade

The extension passed the House with strong bipartisan support, but its one-year duration leaves little room for long-term planning. For collectors, sorters and traders across the reuse value chain, stable trade rules are essential for investment decisions and operational continuity.

“AGOA plays a critical role in preserving duty-free access for U.S. exports, including secondhand clothing,”

said Jessica Franken, Vice President of Government and External Affairs at the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association, following the vote. Her remarks underscore how dependent the sector has become on political decisions made far from the sorting floors and resale markets they affect.

AGOA plays a critical role in preserving duty-free access for U.S. exports, including secondhand clothing,” says Jessica Franken from SMART.

At the same time, trade in used clothing has grown increasingly contentious. Several African governments have, at different points, sought to restrict imports of secondhand clothing, often citing concerns about domestic textile industries or waste management. The United States has responded by signalling that such measures could jeopardise AGOA benefits, turning the agreement into a tool of trade diplomacy rather than a neutral framework.

African Markets and the Consequences of Shifting Import Rules

Seen in this light, the one-year extension reflects a broader uncertainty. While textile reuse is frequently promoted as a cornerstone of the circular economy, it continues to occupy an uneasy position in trade policy. Depending on perspective, secondhand garments are framed as commodities, waste, or development challenges.

For African markets, shifting trade rules are not an abstract policy issue. The secondhand sector supports millions of livelihoods in retail, repair and logistics. Sudden changes in import conditions can have immediate effects on income, access to affordable clothing and local market stability.

Trade Policy as a Constraint on Circular Textile Flows

Similar tensions are visible in Europe, albeit through different regulatory instruments. There, debates focus on extended producer responsibility, waste definitions and traceability rather than tariffs. Yet the underlying questions are comparable. Who bears responsibility once textiles leave their original market, and how can cross-border reuse be governed in ways that are both environmentally and economically viable.

The AGOA extension offers temporary stability, but leaves the long-term future unresolved. For the global circular economy, it serves as a reminder that reuse depends not only on environmental ambition, but on political frameworks capable of supporting material flows over time.